Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: wipe off oil floor finish
PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 2:18 am 
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I have installed and refinished few re-cycled hardwood floors for myself. I have a 2000 sq. ft. of maple flooring that I intend on installing in my own house. In the past I have used Dalys Floor-Fin. I like it because damages to the floor can be easly fixed, without re-sanding the entire floor. I also like the finish, less glossy and more natural. But it is labor intensive (applying and wiping off, applying and wiping off ect.,,,,) I noticed in one forum Gary liked Dalys Sea-fin Teak oil. I do too, but I use that on doors and other products that have less wear and tear. Does anyone have an opinion on this type of finish? Do you think I would be better off trying something else?


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 2:43 pm 
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Penetrating "oil" finishes are easier to maintain, in one regard. They are easier to touch up. But I have found that they do NOT make as good of a moisture or stain proof finish as surface coated floors do. Yep, scratches and dents do not show as much mainly because of the very low luster. But now, there are surface coatings that have nearly matte finish reflections. So my choice is alway to use a surface coating. It is just what I prefer. Over an extremely hard exotic, a penetrating oil finish may be a better option. But on maple flooring, my choice would be BONA Traffic in satin or matte finish.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 2:46 am 
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Hey Thanks. I appreciate you sharing your expertise.

I'll try a small experiment with the Traffic and see it has the right finish esthetically. One concern I have is that it will look too clear. The oil has a nice depth to it, and I like the bit of yellowing you get from it. I'm also reading that I might be able to apply a coat of oil before I apply the Traffic if I want more of that look?

I was also led to believe that the penatrating oil by it's very nature would give a better resistance to miosture, because it doesnt " sit on the surface"
I know that I use it on exterior surfaces because it wont crack or peel. I'm out here in the Seattle. Rains a big factor.

Is it that the Traffic has a much harder finish?


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 3:08 am 
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Why would you want a yellow cast over your floor that would cover up the natural beauty of your grain and texture of your wood? Let the beauty of the wood shine through.

I would recommend using Bonaseal and a clear coats of Traffic. If you are interested in that yellow cast. Bona's new Deep Tone Sealer has some yellow tint. You could apply this and 2 coats of the DTS for a deeper yellow tinting. :roll:

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 3:58 am 
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That's pretty sensible advice. Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 5:29 am 
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I went in to the local Bona Distributor to check out the samples and ask some questions. And he was trying to steer me away from the water based finishes. He was pushing the Synteko Classic, (that’s cheaper). What do you guys think of this product?

His reasoning is that with a light colored maple, I would loose the depth and it would look plastic. My wood is actually very varied, it's not only clear grained, there are also quite a bit of curly and sculptured boards as well, and I am hoping that they will be highlighted.I saw the Traffic and the Natural on some cherry, and it looked good, but his opinion was that it looks better on dark woods.

Now I’m questioning myself. One thing that concerns me about the oil is the fumes. Is this the type of finish that is getting banned from other parts of the country?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 10:48 am 
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In my opinion the Bona Traffic with Boanseal looks exceptionally well on a lighter floor with lighter graining like maple.

The ambering over time of the solvent based finishes and other methods that give an amber tint to the floor, will hide the character of the floor IMHO.

Other finishes are less expensive. I use Bona Traffic for it's reputation of durability. For me one of the biggest affirmations of it's quality is the fact that many pre-finished manufacturers recommend using Traffic to recoat their factory finished floors.

I'm sure you could see some examples of floors done with both methods without having to travel to Yakima.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 2:52 pm 
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Synteko Classic is an acid-curing urethane. Sometimes called a "Swedish Finish." These are only for the most highly skilled and even then, I feel they are difficult to use. They are highly flammable, toxic and downright dangerous, IMO. I do not expect these to be on the market very much longer. BONA Traffic and Naturale are as good as it gets, IMO, for SAFE, durable and attractive floor finishes. They cost more but I just charge the client more for them.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 9:18 pm 
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I'm convinced. I trust you guys.

I'm going 1 coat DTS, 2 coats Naturale.

(I like the look of the Naturale, and I also like the flexibility of being able to spot fix it.)


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 4:14 am 
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I am excited about the introduction of Naturale. I have not used it yet, though I have received a sample board with it applied.

This finish has a bit of texture after it is cured. A very unique look. It is supposed to give the look of almost untreated wood. "Naturale"

I am looking forward to your pics.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 4:35 am 
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knock on wood


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 4:40 am 
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When do you anticipate getting finish applied?

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 4:48 am 
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If all goes well, this week. But this time of year can be overwhelming.

Do you like applying with a brush, roller or T-bar?


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 5:22 am 
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I use a foam cut-in pad for most everything.

Though, I believe that the Naturale finish is only too be applied with the roller. Be sure to get the "bona rollers". They have special guides on them to ensure the proper spread rate of your finish.

In general the roller is the easiest DIY application method. You do not need to follow the grain, and makes it easier to avoid lap marks.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 5:31 am 
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That’s what I was intending on using, and I figured I’d cut in the corners with a squeegee or a brush.

I saw the Naturale on a nice sized cherry sample (maybe 8 x 10)
and it looked really nice. I'm hoping it will wear well on the lighter floor also. The literature says it's just as rugged as the Traffic.


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