Old growth all heart NA Black Cherry. 8" x 12'. I'm using in new construction.

I'd like to build the best floor system for this but won't have humidity control all year.

I'll have thick base molding and could do a floated floor, as least as I understand it. I'd like to reduce the gaps in the winter, and it can get quite humid in the summer. So floating is attractive.

Could I successfully float this stuff?

Not if it's solid, engineered, yes.



What? No AC? Why not humidify it now, raise it up if it is dry so as to lesson the gaps and decrease the amount of movement later, plus washer rows.

Hi Stephen,

Makes sense on the floating floor. I read an article where they were discussing wide plank hardwood and floating it. Such is the risk of internet articles.

I would take the proper steps to acclimate all the boards for weeks.

I'll have AC, but there is a constant wind and house is being built to allow that cross sectional air-flow. This is near a Great Lake, so humidity can be high. If it's hot and high humidity, I'd turn on the AC. I could also humidify in winter. No problem with that.

I will be laying this flooring on the poured basement slab. Walkout basement. I would likely run a dehumidifier set to 50% in the basement at all times.

Both the upstairs floor as well as basement floor need isolation from moisture changes. I get that.

What are washer rows? Spacers?

Small washers placed every so many feet in the entire row leaving gaps that will close up in the summer and keep the floor from buckling. Can't do that if your floating an engineered so your good anyway.

I have installed floating 3/4 x 8" x 10' planks but that was a 3 ply engineered. And I doubt you'd be able to find it in what you have or are going to buy. Sounds nice, I'd really like to see some pics of that job as it goes along. Keep in touch and oh, buy a moisture meter.

Small washers... got it- Thanks-

Pegging won't stop buckling, I understand. For 8" board it still seems like a good idea.

Is a poly sheet sufficient under sleepers on basement slab? Iso foam between sleepers?

We didn't discuss pegging. I've never done it but I hear it is labor intensive and does help reduce movement. Maybe Kevin or someone will chime in on the pegging.

Sleepers over concrete need more than just plastic. Traditionally NOFMA spec'd it and it was a couple alternating layers of plastic and roofing mastic. But no one advises going below grade with solid, especially in a basement. It would have to have an HVAC system.

Thanks- I can include several layers of moisture barrier below grade. There would be multi-zone HVAC and dehumidification

This is the plan for soundproofing the floors

I understand I should glue this down as well. Is glueing and pegging redundant? Could I glue and nail, and avoid pegging?

Could I glue and nail (through the groove as per normal) all 8" stock and avoid pegging?

Pegging these days IMO is just for asthetics and nothing else. But it does work. Unless you want that look then go for it. It's alot of extra work.

That's good to know! So glue and nail will work. Great- Thanks!!