I am starting to lay my wide board floors . Both Oak and Ash . The boards have been air dried for 4 years ( the last 6 months in my garage under a tart with a dehumidifier ) .The widths range from 7" to 10" ( with some Ash up to 13" ) . Thickness is just under 7/8 ".We have accepted that there will be gaps and that they will grow in the dryer colder weatherI have planed, straight cut and tongue and grooved them but I have heard several options for attachment . I was going to lay felt paper , Back seal the boards w/ water based poly or old latex paint and conventionally nail / staple the edges. Finish will be oil based poly.But a woodworker friend told me to use a construction adhesive and Face screw & bung the boards. I would even consider face nailing with the old nails if that would stabilize the planks . I am putting this down ( in the spring/summer ) in a house that does not use the central air very often, so I am also thinking that I should not but the boards together too tightly , in fact , maybe leave a 32nd gap.I could live with gaps but am afraid that the boards will buckle if laid to tightly. I need guidance on the question of weather to face nail or face screw and weather to glue the boards down. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.Ethan

I think your woodworker friend gave you some solid advice. Thats some big wood and it will move alot. Better to install in summer.

Thanks for the info . I concure with the idea to install in summer ( max humidity in the north east ) and face screw the wider boards and plug the holes. But I wasnt sure of the need for gluing vs. an underlayment . if I also adhere the boards down I would have to forgo the tar paper or rosin paper. But since Im installing on the first floor of a new house with a dry basement , Im assuming the paper is not needed. I cant understand how it would stop floor creaking . Seems like it is just a moisture barrier that isn't required in my case.

I think this is pretty wide and thick wood boards. I would acclimate it right where you are planning to install it. If the wood was sitting in the garage with the concrete slab this wood need a proper acclimation in the rooms where it will be installed. Face screwing it is for sure pretty solid approach but tongue and grooved is just a nicer floor unless you like the old look of screws. I have done couple of hardwood floors jobs like this in San Francisco glue and nail on plywood, nail to T&G with 16 gauge nails of course. It worked but I have acclimated it well meassured the moisture in the subfloor and the wood, never used dehumidifier before installation this just makes all the moisture condition different then usual. Hope this will help