It's all good.

You are so right. Acclimation of the flooring is about the numbers (MC and RH and temp)not about the time. Example: The region I live in receives flooring kiln dried for this area. The MC is 7 to 8%. Now if I deliver that product into an envirinment where the subfloor is 10%, the RH is 45%, and the temp is 70 deg. (and these numbers remain constant) and the flooring is consistantly 7 to 8% MC, do I need to acclimate? And why? The answer is no. Because the flooring is already at equilibrium to the environment. However, if the environment numbers change and fluctuate alot, then acclimation may be wise. But how do I tell, even with a meter, what the wood should be in an environment that is changing. The answer is you can't and should go by the subfloor MC reading. If the subfloor is consistantly 10% everywhere and doesn't change and the wood is 7 to 8% and doesn't change, then what is to be gained by acclimation? ZERO! I try to get the environment to be constant by controlling the HVAC; but sometimes that doesn't matter. In situations where the environment is fluctuating and constant numbers are unattainable, I simply present this info to the buyer, along with a waiver of liability. Sign and accept or return the flooring. I do try to educate buyers about wide swings in RH and temps. They rarely take this to heart until the floor developes gaps from low RH. Then I remind them about the talk we had. Another bizarre idea: How about NOFMA'S and the NWFA'S recommendation to UNBUNDLE all the wood and spread it around the job site for four to five days. Does anyone in their right mind think that is going to happen? The general building contractor would go through the roof, the flooring would get damaged from everyone walking all over it, and all in all, you'd have one difficult mess to handle. In principle, this SOUNDS like a good idea. But like some of their other illogical recommendations (3/4" expansion gap), this one has no practical application. If the floor is so badly kiln dried that it needs to be dumped all around the job, then it's crap before you even get started. And four days isn't going to make any difference. As Chuck so accurately pointed out, acclimation is a waste of time (without proper testing).

Fraudulent? Pretty powerful word Chuck. I would think misleading would be a better one to use? So when are you guys going to rewrite the book?

It seems a lot of the stuff on acclimation and installation was written many years ago before moisture meters were used? I started in the early 90's and I can't think of anyone using them.

So true, Ken.

Before moisture meters, there were ways of determining MC of the wood. But as today, only the craftsmen that knew how, did it.

It is one thing to have a moisture meter. It is another thing to understand what the numbers the meter produces, mean.
Along with a MC meter, one needs a hydrometer!

And to throw another stick in the mud, I have been told by Tramex that sticking a pin type moisture meter into a plywood subfloor does not necessarily yield an accurate reading for moisture content. Apparently, the density of the wood/glue laminate varies considerably and can lead to innacurate readings.

Man, if we can't even trust our meters, what are we supposed to do? I quess it's a crap shoot. Give it your best and hope for the best.

no free lunch

http://www.nofma.org/tips1.htm

Hehehe!

I need to quit posting when I first wake up and when I'm dog tired, ready for some ZZZZ's!!


My old computer, I had a program, that was a spell checker that popped a red window up with the incorrect word and several "could be" possibilities. I miss that program.

So gentlemen what is a DIYer to do if the manufacturers recommendations haven't much value? I live in the S.F. Eastbay, a very moderate climate, and I'd like to pull up the vinyl in the kitchen and staple down a nice engineered hardwood. The subfloor is 1" by 8" plank on the diagonal. There is no AC and I have a simple gas wall heater. I can buy a hygrometer and a moisture meter and I'm not pressed for time so I can have the flooring sitting around as long as necessary. So what is the drill?

Thanks

Jan

Hi Jan,

I also live in the S.F. East Bay. With an engineered floor, you should see way less dimensional change as the product is more stable. Did you see the NOFMA article Don Zorn posted. Very good stuff. With engineered, depending on which one, I would acclimate according to the instructions that come with the flooring. Why? Because engineered flooring often comes with a better warranty than solid and if you can verify that the instructions were followed to the letter, then IF a problem occurs, you stand a better chance filing a claim. With a a hygrometer (humidistat), you'll probably notice large fluctuations on a regular basis. The idea is to get an idea of what the averaqge is most of the time. If you can keep the temp. in the moderate range (65 to 75 deg.), you should have no problems. BTW, what do you do about our hot summers without AC?

Meters are good "indicators" of moisture content in wood, not exact lab testing results. In the field, only "indicative" or "qualitative" testing is achieved. Lab testing gives us "conclusive" and/or "quantitative" results.
Meters are not perfect, but they are darned close....
Ray

Acclimation: Yes, it is all about moisture content and three days of acclimation does not always result in Wood Moisture Content in equilibriam with the "Average In Use Conditions".... but it does help.
Chuck,
If you were a manufacturer, how would you write your Pre-Installation requirements to insure best results?
Ray

Ray,
I would

Gary,

Thanks for your reply, I'll rest easier. In answer to your question, I live in El Cerrito barely a mile from the Bay. Ordinarily there's a breeze off the Bay. One or two days a year the breeze drops and I need a fan. Further east,of course, AC is a necessity.

Thanks

Jan