Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Where is my starting point? hardwoods installed in past
PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 1:37 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2006 12:41 pm
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I'll be installing a Bruce Glenn Cove 3/8" engineered plank floor this weekend. This will be in my dining room which is attached to the foyer area. The foyer area has existing hardwood (same type) installed by the builder over a year ago. Where should I start the first row of planks?

I have read that I should start with the largest wall in the room and it's best to be on an exterior wall. However, if I do this it will be oppisite of the already installed hardwoods from the ajoining foyer. Wouldn't I be in trouble if I start against this wall and get to the ajoining foyer only to find out a full piece of plank doesn't fit?

I am thinking that I should just contine off of the foyer wood and lay to the largest wall.

Am I correct?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 4:16 pm 
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Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
If possible, it would be best to continue from where the other floor ended. Hopefully, it will be square and parallel with your walls. So you want to try to tie into the existing floor so that it looks like it was done at the same time.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 9:22 pm 
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Start where the other flooring ends, as you get out into the open. measure both sides to see just how square you are. If your off, you can cheat the boards by leaving very, very small gaps. until you get on square.


I have had to make up for a wall that was 3½" out, because the framers fudged, when they popped there lines for the wall. And I had dark wood to work with.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 10:56 pm 
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Thank You

Now another question (figured I'd ask here instead of creating another thread). I've tested my floor for flatness and there are two areas (about 3 foot in diameter) that are not flat > 1/8". I went to Lowes and purchased a product called Henrys 555 floor self leveling. Has anyone used this product before? How do you like it? Is this the correct product for use with my hardwoods/adhesive (3/8" engineered Bruce planks/ProConnect adhesive?

Thanks!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 11:14 pm 
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Oh and another question... :D

Can someone tell me some general tips of using a self leveling product???

I thought I would need a trowel but would this just make the leveler more of a mess?

If I don't use a trowel how does the leveler work? Does it spread itself out because of the consistencey?

If the spot I want to level is about 3 foot in area and the shape of an oblong circle how does the leveler fill in all that area without me screeding or using a trowel?

Sorry for all the questions.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 12:01 am 
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Location: melb fla
I would follow mixing instructions on bag. Then i start pouring about a foot or so from one end right threw the middle just dumping enought to full it up about 3/4 full all the way down let it settle down a minute then pour it down the same filling it to the top. It settle a little low if not enought but to much not good neither you could pull it with straightedge but for me then it always settles low then i skim it with path the next day but make sure it dry before laying floor it sounds harder then it is. GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR FLOORS

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 10:30 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2004 7:35 pm
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Location: Coeur 'd Alene, Idaho
Are you pouring the leveler on concrete or wood subfloor? I'm not real experienced my self with levelers but I've always thought you'd need to seal any wood with primer before pouring a masonry product on it to prevent any over rapid drying or water causing wood subfloor to swell a bit. Can anyone help? Am I going Nuts? Is this my beautiful house?? and just where is the beef?!?!?! :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

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Heritage Hardwood Floors
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In order to achieve what the competition cannot grasp, we must complete what they will not attempt. Nobody ever said it would be easy, but it's darn sure worth it.


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