My flooring is: 3/8 in. x 4-3/4 in. Click Lock Hardwood Flooring and here's my flooring layout...I'm doing all three bedrooms, closets and hallways but neither the bathrooms nor stairs, which I want to refinish, other than an overlap stair nose, where the top step meets the flooring. Where would you pile up the flooring planks to acclimate for each room or area?

I would put one-third in the guest bathroom and two-thirds in the master bath.
Then you will not have to move it again while you prep the floor and lay it down.

Thanks!
That's exactly what i was thinking but was wondering how any steam from shower would affect acclimation. With that said, where would you start laying the first planks and how would you ensure sure that they're straight?

I would distribute them on the walls in the bedrooms that you will hit last when installing. Your going to have huge rh swings in bathrooms.

Thanks!
Where would you start installing first planks and how would you ensure they're straight, if walls are not?

FWIW, The floor joists run the same direction as the lines on paper and I plan to run flooring planks across joists not with them.

After you prep the sub-floor by checking for high and low areas, and find the floor flat to within 1/4 inch in ten feet, you can use a chalk line to get a perfectly straight line.
If you neglect to get the floor flat, you may loose any warrantee that comes with your flooring.
We start on the longest straight wall, and the outside wall takes priority, so I would start at the wall at the top of the steps and work away from there.
Your rise on the top step needs to be no more than 3/8 " difference from the lowest riser height to keep the steps up to code. You may need to plane or grind the sub-floor at the top step before you start.

Thanks!
How do you use a chalk line to get a perfectly straight line?

If starting at the wall at the top of the steps and working away from there, when would you install stair nose?

A chalk box holds the string and colored chalk sticks to the string in the reel,
inside the chalk box. When the line is taught between the starting marks at ends of the room, you stretch the string with your finger and then let it go. You need to hold the line pressed to the marks on the sub-floor the sub-floor so the chalk will make a mark on the sub-floor. If you drive a nail into the floor and stretch the other end you can make the line yourself instead of someone else holding the end
when the line is stretched and then released quickly, like plucking a guitar string.

You will have to do some carpentry to get the nosing to be fastened down and still allow for expansion. After planning the position of the nosing and how it will be fastened down, you can lay the floor and finally fasten the nosing in place after the floor is laid.

Thanks!

Starting marks???

Stair nose after flooring, got it!

What are these "starting marks" that you speak of and how do you determine where, at the ends of the room, you would make them?

After you have rolled the underlayment foam out and have fastened it down with tacks or staples, you will need to find where the edge of the first plank will be.
After you have determined how far from the starting wall it will need to be, including the expansion gap, you can drive two nails into the sub-floor at each end of the room. Then stretch your string line and "pop" the line.
You will need shims to take up the expansion gap while you work away from the wall.

Why not buy a book. lol

http://www.amazon.com/Wood-Flooring-Com ... 0QXJZRPTP9


http://www.amazon.com/Hardwood-Floors-L ... 0942391624