Is there any tricks when you have a short wall between 2 rooms. I have started the big room but now need to make sure the other room lines up when going around this short wall.

Using 3/4" Stapled down

Hope that all makes sense


Thanks for any help

i just went thru that. i spent hours making sure that the boards would be perpendicular and parallel with each room, and i made sure that all flooring lines lined up at any thresholds. i got a bit anal about it, but i used a laser, chalk lines, measured 3 or 4 times, used a square and any other means i could think of to be sure everything was right.

my 17 x 17 bedroom ended up with the exact measured end piece from one wall to the other. we just finished a 33 foot hallway today and we ended up the same. the lines in the hallway are perfect with the lines in the bedroom.

next is the living room and dining room. 1300 sf of flooring. taking the extra time to be sure your floor is straight and square really makes the job professional looking, even if your walls are off.

Since you have already started in the "big room" don't start laying in the other room yet. When you make it up to the pass thru you should use a laser or chalk line and run the flooring on into the next room using some scraps of flooring for back up nailers against that row. After you get 4 or 5 rows down take up the back up boards and spline that first row so you have a double tongue board and take off the other way. Go slow and check for squareness.

Jerry, you taking about going into another room, or doing a wrap around and meet back up?

I think they are talking about a wrap around.

I do all the things mga stated, and pull my hair out, before it can turn gray.

Sorry, I'm not awake yet I was not talking about a wrap around. I use control lines as mentioned on wrap arounds. I guess I would still do it basically the same way, start thru the first cased opening , move up and and split off and then meet back up again. I'm thinking the poster has two cased openings connecting these 2 rooms.

THanks for all the good info!!!

SO it is all right to turn around and go the other direction. Let me try and lay it out for you

l
l
l
l
l LR
l
l
l
------ ------
l
l HALL
l
--------------------------

Not the best but might explain what I am lookning at.

Now after I get up to that short wall and go through into the Hall can I turn around and nait back the other way?

What is the best way to make or get one of these Double Tongued Boards?

thanks

if that back wall is the same wall, could you work out from both sides and meet where the short wall ends? (provided, of course, your rows are equal)

In the case of wraparounds I found it is easier to line meet back up around the walls or other obstacles by starting on one side of the wall or obstacle(sometimes pre-set islands). Then by using a few control lines you are almost automatically guaranteed to line back up. If however you find yourself out a bit (it happens sometimes) then you will need to find the widest side and start correcting by trimming a row or two (sometimes more depending on correction)by no more than a 1/8" per row. This is assuming a 2 1/4" width strip. With larger planks you can increase the amount to be ripped per row. Then it's a case of regrooving with a quality slotter bit in your router table. It takes some practice and care must be giving in the straightness and flatness of correction boards otherwise the grooves will not work out well.

Never rip a board!!! Don't fully complete the room on one side of the wall at a time. Do several rows on one side, and then do several rows on the other side and keep comparing the measurement to your control line, on each side of the wrap around. If you see your getting off, a 1/64 of a gap in a few rows can make up the difference and not be noticed. Ripping a board is real easily noticed, especially in a prefinished floor.

I disagree...I've done it several times. If it's off more than 1/8" inch then your best bet is to do it among several rows to make the boards unnoticeable. NEVER once have I had a problem doing this. With the proper tools and know how it works everytime.

I agree. If you are off by very much rip a minimal amount off of a few rows. Does not matter if its prefinished or site-finished except if the boards are beveled you may have to hit them with a palm sander and a wipe on poly.

We should not be off but stuff happens, especially with the brands I'm usually working with.