Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: What type of sanding machine should I use?
PostPosted: Thu May 11, 2006 1:59 pm 
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Hi,

I'm refinishing a white oak floor from a 40-year-old house. Although the whole house has hardwood floor, most of it was covered with carpet, and tiles on the kitchen.

What sanding equipment should I use? Any suggestions for polyurethane brands or types?

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2006 10:21 am 
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Your situation sounds nearly identical to mine. I have a 50 year old house with lovely white oak floors that have been covered with carpet the entire time.

As a DIYer, I really like the U-Sand orbital sander. It's four random orbit heads and a vacuum that does a nice job cutting through old finish. It's not very aggressive, though, which is both its strength and weakness. You may not be able to get deep scratches or stains out of the floor (I call these "character" in a 50 year old floor), but you won't gouge the floor either. It's quite idiot proof, which is essential when I'm behind the wheel.

In my experience, white oak excels with three coats of oil polyurethane. The ambering is just made for oak and gives a classic look.

Bill


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PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2006 1:14 pm 
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Hi Bill

I really appreciate your input. I also like the use of the word 'character'!
I have another question. Did you stain your white oak floor?

Thanks!
daniel


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PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2006 3:13 pm 
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Please note that I am a novice DIYer when it comes to refinishing hardwood floors. There are some great pros on this forum who are willing to give you first rate advice, if you ask the right questions. I just like to give back where I can.

I didn't mention that my floors are only 1/2 inch thick, which is a big reason why I went with the U-Sand unit rather than a traditional drum sander.

Regarding stain, I experimented with a lot of options. I found that 2 or 3 coats of oil modified poly gives just the right amber tone for an oak floor without any stain. It also subtly accents the figure. One problem with stain is that it will not only highlight grain, but also every scratch and defect (ie character) in your 50 year old floor.

If you go with waterborne poly, you'll have to do something to add color to the floor. I've been playing around with a shellac sealer (Parks Universal Sealer) that gives a really nice amber color in a the sealer coat. According to the can, you can apply either oil or water poly over it.

Good luck with the old oak floors. They are worth it.

Bill


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PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2006 5:53 pm 
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Thanks!!!!!

I'll go with the modified oil poly!

Thanks again!!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2006 6:44 pm 
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Try your best to get a hold of professional quality polyurethane. I've been wrestling with Varathane "Super Build" (what some call "goo" and others "crap"). It has the consistency of honey. You really have to muscle it with a brush to make it lay down. According to the pros on this list, Bona Kemi or Basic make a good OMU. Parks Pro Finish (Home Depot) seems to flow much better for a 350 VOC product. (Hopefully you live in a state where you can still buy good oil poly. In the People's Republic of California, we're stuck with the "low VOC" stuff.)

As I said, I'm just a novice. The pros around here will give you some good advice. You're gonna love those floors.

Bill


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PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2006 12:03 am 
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I really appreciate your help.

Thanks!!!!!


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