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 Post subject: What method do you use to water pop grain
PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2006 6:26 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 17, 2005 8:21 pm
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Location: Indiana
I read through Gary's post explaining his method of grain raising but I would like to hear the methods of other folks here as well. I've water popped a few floors, mostly as a conditioning process before white or pastel staining, it always seemed to work out but as I recall these were always smaller floors. I've got a big dark stained Maple floor 2000ft+, with not a parallel wall in the house (architects idea, not the builders) and absolutely no room for error. I'm currently on a 1200ft Maple project, staining Cinnamon color, that would be a great canidate for practicing. I would like to sum together many different methods, if provided, to acheive the best, least nerve-racking, results. Thanks for any input.

Christof


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2006 7:39 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 25, 2004 7:42 pm
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Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
Christof,

Think through your question. In your opinion, what way can you think of that would be the best way to apply water evenly to a wood floor without flooding it? Others have tried misting the floors with garden sprayers and the results have been less than optimal. So, how else can you get the water on the floor? That is the essence of the question. I suggested ragging on the water OR using a Padco pad like a sponge mop. Any other way that you can think of? Once the water is on, you just need to let it dry. The only variable is how much water to use and how to apply it. Too much water and you will ruin the floor, that's for sure. So hosing it down isn't going to work. Plus it needs to be applied at a relatively even rate with no missed places. How many different ways can you think of that will accomplish this?


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2006 11:22 pm 
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Location: Indiana
Well I have a 2g pressure pot HVLP system that I use in my spray booth, maybe someone has tried using water through an HVLP with remote pot system? Trial and error is a great but often costly way to learn so it never hurts to ask :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 3:10 am 
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That very well may work. Perhaps you could give it a try on a small floor and let us know how it turns out and if you think it was labor saving over using a sponge mop.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 2:27 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2004 7:35 pm
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Location: Coeur 'd Alene, Idaho
Sponge mop Chris ....... not super razzooo but works great.

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William
Heritage Hardwood Floors
Coeur 'd Alene, ID


In order to achieve what the competition cannot grasp, we must complete what they will not attempt. Nobody ever said it would be easy, but it's darn sure worth it.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2006 1:24 am 
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Location: Alameda CA
I myself rag it on . I just did a very nice hickory hand scraped floor that when I can figure out how to post a pic here I will but back to what I might be able to add here. The way you put the water on is not as big of a deal as how much as well as not to miss a spot as I beleive Gary coverd. I think he even mentioned making sure its dry that where my 2 cents can be added. How do we make sure its dry? Not just on top . Easy get your moisture meter take a reading of the floor before you start it should be the same when its dry.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2006 2:03 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2004 7:35 pm
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Location: Coeur 'd Alene, Idaho
Good Stuff Rich. Thanks for more input as I am realatively new to the technique myself. With 9 posts you must be new ... WELCOME!

As far as posting a pic, try PM to Ken the Administrator. You can e-mail th pic in an attatchment and he wil post it for you or you can post a link to where the pic might be elsewhere on the web.

Hope that helps ...

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William
Heritage Hardwood Floors
Coeur 'd Alene, ID


In order to achieve what the competition cannot grasp, we must complete what they will not attempt. Nobody ever said it would be easy, but it's darn sure worth it.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 6:32 pm 
I built , sanded , and pulled finish on Bowling alleys for 7 years .. After our last sanding , we use to a get a bath towel , soak it in water , ring it out , and let it set for a a half hour , rap it around a push broom and run it down the lanes .. that use to raise the grain a little ..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 6:51 pm 
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Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
Hi Floor Guy (now there's two of you ),
That's a type of floor finishing I never did; bowling alleys! Which type of finish did you use? I heard moisture cured was the standard. And can I ask why you let the water dampened towel sit for a half hour before using it? What does that do? I'm just curious, that's all. Glad to have you here. Do you do other types of floors as well?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 7:17 pm 
Back in the day we used 5 coats of laquer , and 3 mor every year after a screening .. They must of tired of all the fires , and came out with a finish called Mirorlane .. 20 years ago it was $190.00 a Gal .. In the past 10 years or so they went to a water base finish .. Now a lot of houses are putting in felnelic lanes .. We let the towels set to dry them out some. we did not want the grain to raised , just remove all the fine saw dust before we put the base coat down .. If you wet the towel , and ringe it hard , you should be fine ..
Hope this helps .. i been installing hardwood ,carpet , and vinyl going on 37 years now ..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 7:56 pm 
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Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
Well, man, my hat's off to you. 37 years is gotta be a record on this board. Anyone top that? I been at it 25+ years and while I still enjoy it, the old bod is protesting more than it used to. Thanks for answering my questions.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 9:08 pm 
My pleasure , if you have any other questions just ask ..


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