Has anyone had the problem of water base sealer making a mark like a lap mark. It usualy happens when you put the applicater down on the wood for a short time to do something else. Or when you make the turn, feather it out and you leave a little too much down.

Is there a cure for this?

Put the applicator down just ahead of where you will be applying finish next so it doesn't sit very long. Make sure you push down on thw applicator & rock it back and forth to remove excess finish before feathering. The rest is just technique. Did you apply a coat of sealer first? Good luck Pete

It happens during the sealer coat. I usually place the applicator where the next line is going to take place, and i squeeze the excess out, i guess not enough. But im unsure why only in white oak is when i get this problem?

I don't have an answer, but I'm currious. What type / brand of sealer & finish are you using. Some sealers have more color than others. Pete

ASWFR:
The problem is called "tannin pull". Water-based products seem to do that with white oak. The solution lies in getting the appropriate product. The best I know is Vermeister's Aqua Tenet. Call Nathaniel at VermeisterUSA.
http://www.vermeisterusa.com/about.shtml

Ask them about "tannin pull".
Charlie

Is it possible leaving marks indicates water based sealer has been exposed to air for extensive lengths of time? How is the material stored? How long are the containers open during application? Do you open the container and leave it open to work from the open container?

I'm not sure if my last post got on, but here goes again . . .!
The problem you're having is with what's called "tannin pull". It's common with water-borne sealers on white oak. (High tannin of white oak is one good reason it's used in winemaking!)
It's mostly a matter of getting the right product. One that I know which has less tannin pull is Vermeister's Aqua Tenax. http://www.vermeisterusa.com/sealers.shtml
Call Nathanial and he'll take care of you.
Charlie Benghauser

Thanks for responding. I have been using Trek plus. The marks usually go away after the product dries but every so often they dont. I would like to start trying to seal with the zinsser seal and sand sealer on a test floor that we made at my flooring supplier. I dont dare try it at a customers house. The product was just recently delivered to the warehouse and i just opened it at the job site no more than 20 minutes before the application. Ill call nathanial for some info.
Thanks again.
Tony

Just wondering . . . are you able to get the Trek Plus to flow out without bubbles? I never could get it to work for me.
SealCoat by Zinsser certainly will eliminate tannin pull. I've used it often. Just be careful of "drips". If they go unnoticed while applying SealCoat, they'll telescope up through the water-based finish. Then the only way to eliminate them is to hand sand through all the finishes back down to bare wood.
For SealCoat I've always applied with a 9 inch rectangular pad from Sherwin-Williams. They don't fall apart from the alcohol. And I never rinse them out. Just let the SealCoat dry on the pad. When you're ready to do another floor, just set the applicator down in the paint pan of SealCoat, let it re-soak awhile and it'll soften. Ready to go! I get about 3 floors out of a pad before it wears out!
Have fun.
Charlie

As for the bubbles in trek, first shake the hell out of it to mix the aluminium oxide (trek rep stated thats overkill but it works for me.)
then after you add the catalyst, shake the hell out of it again until your arms are going to fall off. It sounds like alot but it works for me. After shaking it, pop the top and let it sit for about 10-15 min. It lets the bubbles work out since you just aerated it. I usually mix right after screening but before vacuuming. This gives it time to settle. i had the problem with bubbles too, but once i found the trick, it works so far.
And also dont over apply.

As for the bubbles in trek, first shake the hell out of it to mix the aluminium oxide (trek rep stated thats overkill but it works for me.)
then after you add the catalyst, shake the hell out of it again until your arms are going to fall off. It sounds like alot but it works for me. After shaking it, pop the top and let it sit for about 10-15 min. It lets the bubbles work out since you just aerated it. I usually mix right after screening but before vacuuming. This gives it time to settle. i had the problem with bubbles too, but once i found the trick, it works so far.
And also dont over apply.