Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Want to install 5/8" bamboo over concrete - best approa
PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2007 10:11 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 9:10 pm
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Location: Indy
Hey floorguy(s),
Sorry, I have a list of questions for you...

I'm in my first home, probably won't be here more than another 2 years, but, I have to do something about my floors without creating vertical height issues and without replacing the cream carpet with more carpet.

So, I started to look at hardwood flooring and found a manufacturer of bamboo, Ta^aka, that I really like and is within my budget. I have 550 sq ft of concrete slab that I'm wanting to cover. Was told by my local handyman to put the bamboo on floating subfloor because of its cushioning effect and also to keep the temperature of the floors regulated. I measured the thickness of the subfloor & the bamboo and thought it would clear my exterior front & back doors. I knew I would need to remove the base boards but that is a non-issue as they are getting replaced entirely. BUT, the problem is my front & back exterior doors skim too closely to the top of the bamboo that it would leave obvious wear over time. I have already priced out what it would cost for the adhesive and that is actually cheaper than the floating subfloor, but I want a nice finished product done right and done as eco-friendly as possible when one is going thru a big-box store.

Question 1: Is there floating subfloor that comes in 1/2" thickness?
Question 2: Should I really stay away from glueing the bamboo directly onto the slab for the reasons stated above or any other reasons you know?
Question 3: What would you do if you were me?
Lastly: Is it really that difficult to find an entry-way door that is only 79 3/4" long??!! Or, is every front door in America really 80" long?

Thanks so much for any insight!


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Amish made hardwood

 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 7:15 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2004 5:44 am
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Location: Austin
1.) I have not researched it. Do a google

2.) It is tricky but can be successfully done.

3.) Uh, you sound like my wife now, shopping for clothes while I'm with her. It's not my house. I can't advise you.

Lastly) Yes, it is going to be difficult. You should have more room at the top, before you hit the framing header, to raise the entire door frame.

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www.AustinFloorguy.com


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 7:38 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 19, 2004 6:02 pm
Posts: 622
Location: Florida
Bamboo, or any hardwood, glued direct to concrete may need a moisture barrier on the concrete surface.
That is expensive as well.........

All concrete requires moisture testing.
Some manufacturers, and retailers, are going to a "must seal" concrete policy because concrete moisture content can change resulting in your floor failing.

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Ray Darrah
Hardwood Floor Inspections. Laminate & Tile Floors


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 9:36 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 9:10 pm
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Location: Indy
thanks Floorguy & Ray for the input...
I decided to go away from the bamboo and to an engineered hardwood b/c I only needed to gain a 1/4" from the 3/4" subfloor + 5/8" solid hardwood and I could get that with an EH. The thickness of the subfloor could not change as most flooring manufacturers won't honor warranties if the subfloor is less than 3/4" thick.
I also really wanted to stay away from the glue down method as much as possible b/c I believe putting down a proper subfloor will give a much nicer end product; afterall, your floor is only as good as the subfloor, right? And, after reading through some other threads on here, I learned that much of the bamboo on the market, especially the types available through big box stores, are not as eco-conscious as I previously thought. Though, I still really like the look of the bamboo grain. :(
Anyhow, now all I need to figure out is how to properly remove my baseboards without destroying my walls or the baseboards, as I'm hoping to reuse the current baseboards instead of having to buy new. I've been told there is a special tool to use for removing them???
Thankfully my dad, a veteran DIYer and someone who has restored historic homes ever since I can remember, will be coming into town to help me out ;) But, I won't be surprised if I have a few more questions for you before this is all done.

Thanks again,
Sara a.k.a. Amateur DIYer


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 9:41 pm 
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Location: Indy
Oh, and I would NEVER ask a guy about women's clothing, unless he was bright so your wife is a brave lady! :lol:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 3:59 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 04, 2004 10:08 pm
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Location: Bonita Springs, Florida
Quote:
Anyhow, now all I need to figure out is how to properly remove my baseboards without destroying my walls


Sounds like another topic for an article guys!

Basically cut the caulking bead(if there is one) as close to the top of the baseboard with a sharp utility knife, then insert a wide putty knife behind it and wiggle the base loose. Once it is out far enough, you can the use a prybar to pull the rest out. This all providing the base is not glued and nailed. If that's the case it's probably a goner. Much depends on the age of the original construction too. That's my .02 from here.


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