A two part question:

1. When installing in a hallway, across the short length, against a stair bannister, is it better to undercut the bannister (by 3/8) or is it better to leave 1/8 in for expansion and caulk it?

2. We are are asking the question because we'd like to know, but also because it will help us pick an installer. Both guys have good references, but each has something that bothers me. One guy was recommended by the only NOFMA member in town (the recommender was a NOFMA inspector, not an installer); but he doesn't own a moisture meter (a red flag) and only does flooring sometimes. His references, however, love him, and say he does great flooring work. He says undercut. The second guy also has great references, does flooring full time, but has been less responsive. He says don't undercut, because it will weaken the bannister. He wants to leave a 1/8 gap and fill it. His answer seems uncredible to me, because you wouldn't have to undercut much--which makes me question whether he wants to do it the fast way (a different red flag).

So, ceteris paribus, do I pick Mr. No-Meter/Undercut, or Mr. Have-Meter But No Undercut?

See, now you know the ridiculous criteria used by your customers in selecting who'll do their work.

I'd have to see it to advise one way or the other. Any pictures to aid us?

Either under cut for a professional look, or if it would comprimise the structural integrity of the banister, use quarter round or base shoe to cover gap. Caulking will not give a professional look.

I read some where that near 70% of installers admitted to not owning a moisture meter. Just wondering about the price. If it so worked out and the guy without is lower. You could offer to buy the meter or pay a hundred bucks more for him to purchase a good non invasive meter for him to keep and use.

Just a crazy idea.

My read is the guy without the meter has the finishing skills, figure out how to get him to use a meter for your piece of mind and you both will benefit.

I'm having a hard time understanding exactly which stair part we are talking about, because a "bannister" is actually all the railing, including handrail, newels and balusters.

bannister - a railing at the side of a staircase or balcony to prevent people from falling
balusters, balustrade, banister, handrail
balcony - a platform projecting from the wall of a building and surrounded by a balustrade or railing or parapet
baluster - one of a number of closely spaced supports for a railing
barrier - a structure or object that impedes free movement
rail, railing - a barrier consisting of a horizontal bar and supports

So the second guy may be right in saying it could weaken the railing. My take on butting up to say, a landing tread


is that upper hallways are typically not very wide, 3 to 4 ft. So, I butt to the landing tread and leave expansion on the other, wall side. Makes a cleaner install. I don't undercut newels or balusters; bad idea. It's best to leave the stairs alone and butt to the stair components.

I'm not clear either. Do you have a balcony guardrail with a plowed out bottom shoe rail which the balusters to fit in?

I deeply apologize, but I lack sufficient knowledge to describe it in proper terms. I'll try to get a picture, but until then, this link probably describes the issues well enough:

http://www.stairs.com/pictures/stairs05.jpg

There is a bannister on the second story keeping occupants from falling. It is essentially within a hallway area serving the second story. The bannister has a board affixed to the subfloor into which the balusters fit. It is slightly rounded on the edge facing the (soon to be replaced) carpet. For most of its length, there is a short span across from it to the other wall, because in those cases the bannister runs parallel with the hallway. But in a few spots the lengths between it and the wall will be much longer, because it runs perpendicular to a hallway.

This will be a difficult install based on the picture link you posted. The "plate" or solid flat piece of wood attached to the subfloor is curved. I agree that undercutting a little bit would probably make the install easier. However, undercutting it will not be easy. One cannot undercut all the way through it, so one would need to undercut say, 1/2" deep from the front. If I were to do this, I'd take my Crain undercut saw and start at the highest setting (the thickness of the flooring ) and undercut 1/2" deep. Then after that pass, lower the cut the thickness of the blade and do it again. Then repeat this process until the entire plate is undercut 1/2" deep and the full thickness of the flooring. Assuming an undercut blade cuts an 1/8" kerf, this would take about 6 passes.

It sounds like y'all would say that not undercutting may be preferable, and would certainly not be unreasonable, or that reasonable minds could differ as to the best approach.

You're making my decision on which installer to pick that much harder!

Liz & Bryan,

As I read Gary's post he is inclined to undercut. As would I. Provided that the thickness of the footer of the hand rail would accommodate the thickness of the flooring you are planning to install. Caulking will not create a look that you will be pleased with for this installation.