As I am going through my boxes and opening them up, stacking them, I'm sorting out the bad wood (half the tongue or 3/4 of the tongue mainly), and the "ugly" wood that has many color variations, knots, or an odd shade.

I know that every person has different tastes; but generally speaking, does using the "ugly wood" give the floor character and uniqueness? Or am I better off just stuffing it in the back of a closet or in a corner?

I also thought that I read that if I have a certain percentage of wood that is 'defective', I can return it? If I can fill a whole box with screwed up wood, is that what I do?

I have only opened maybe 5 or 6 boxes so far, and I have the following two pics worth of wood that is either screwed up, or "ugly". I thought I read that I could pack all the bad stuff back up in a box for a refund, as it is a certain percentage of the total wood that I bought. At $100/box, I can't see having this much wood that is no good (mainly the tongue stuff).

I do realize that there are some spots where I may need to cut the tongue off and I can use those pieces, but I will still have MANY pieces.

Thoughts?


This is the "bad tongue" type wood so far. What I pulled out of ~6 boxes.





Here is the "ugly" wood, not sure what I should do with it yet?




These are my good pieces. This is how it's supposed to acclimate, correct?



Thank you!

I like the character of your "ugly" wood. That looks to be maple with a caramel stain?

Character hides scratches from dogs dropped keys etc... having a completely uniform floor like that will amplify any and all scratches and dents. Don't wear shoes in the house and put your dogs cats down before you lay that type of floor J/K but be careful.


As far as returning....the manufacturer will state what amount of waste is acceptable. Usually 10-15% and no you won't be able to return it. You will want to keep a box unopened for a perfect match when/if you ever need to do repairs.

It all depends on what grade you had, If that is maple there is first, second, common, and #2 common I believe.
That definatley isnt first grade, its more varried than 2nd grade would be (IMO) and I am speaking on unfinished woods. I have noticed prefinished manufacturers have been producing grades I havent heard of.

The manufacturer expects one to "cut out" the defect and use the rest of the board. So if you have a flaw in the middle, you cut that spot out and use the board as a starter or at the end of a run. This is the way that 5% rule works. Not 5% of the boards but 5% of all the square footage. What grade did your manufacturer call your flooring? I've heard some pretty interesting names. Like "Country" grade, cabin grade, premium, pacific, etc. None of them comply with NOFMA's grading because they don't have to on pre-finished flooring.

Oooh I see thanks for clarifying that. Where do I find the grade? It's Bruce Kennedale series...Maple (caramel).

Someone on another site said that the way that I have my floor laid out right now will cause it to bow and warp; but I was certain that I read that the best way to acclimate it is to remove it from the carton and stack it up like this?

Am I going to have issues?

dont forget "utitliy" grade

Bruce does not grade their prefinished floors in that manner. They just make different floors with different woods and colors and styles and give them individual "names". Only some manufacturers use common grading names or terms with their prefinished floors. Many don't.

I wouldn't have done it that way. If your subfloor and wood aren't within guidelines, you may have to acclimate your wood for a weeks. If there is a next time, just leave the wood in the boxes to acclimate....opening the ends may help.

Just a thought, but what happens if you find a serious flaw in the lot and need to return your wood? It may be difficult now that all the wood has been separated from their original cartons.

Beats me...I'm new to this whole wood thing.

I guess if I find a bunch of flaws I can just put them back in the box? I'm not sure how it works...

Reason I took the wood out was because of advice I read here, and in instructions...is it not the best way to do it though?

I have 27 boxes, but only opened about 7-8. I figure this way they will acclimate better, and I can go through the wood and sort it as good, junky tongue, and colorful...and then start racking it while I wait to get a nailgun and for my moisture meter to come in. If it's best to just leave them though, I can leave the other 20 boxes alone until I need them.

Basically it is telling you to open the boxes to allow air movement. Many people open the ends. Anyway, no harm done if you only removed 7 cartons of wood. Get yourself a good moisture meter and check the wood/subfloor before you get started. Your wood may already be acclimated.

Good Luck!

Gotcha! I ordered the meter a couple days ago, hopefully it will be here Tuesday or so. I still have to pick up a nailer.

I strongly suggest the Harbor Freight nailer. I used it on over 1100 square feet in my home. There is a 30 day warranty... so if it leaks you can take it back and get a new one. I am convinced that it is an exact copy of the Bostich. I believe they are both made in china.

Bruce uses Good, Better, Best. Kennedale is a Best line.

On this vendor's site, a Bruce dealer, I see no mention of "good, better or best." And in fact, on these products, Bruce uses the term "Country" to designate a "lessor" grade ( a grade with more character markings ).

Kennedale Natural:


Kennedale Country Natural:


Liberty Plains Oak Natural:


Liberty Plains Oak Country Natural:


Perhaps Bruce does use the good, better, best on SOME of it's floors. But like most pre-finished flooring manufacturers, they prefer to use vague descriptions of quality to ward off any claim of improper grading.