Hi,

I have a tile kitchen that has two passageways to a living room floor that I am about to install 3/4" hickory (4" wide boards) in. At one passageway, the two floors will essentially meet at the same height. However, at the other, the hardwood will be 1/4" lower than the tile, once installed. The new boards will be running perpendicular to the tiled kitchen.

Subfloor in hardwood area is (now) 3/4" (.688) sturdi floor T&G.

How would you experts suggest I handle that 1/4" difference at the one transition?

Thanks!

Matt

To add - it looks like there is a rise, or bump, in the tile floor right about where this passageway is located. It is near where a porch was enclosed and kitchen expanded before we owned the place.

Make a transition from a piece of your flooring. Decide what width looks good to you. Cut a 1/4" rabbet on half of the underside of the transition. The rabbeted edge will rest on the tile. The side without the rabbet will rest on the hardwood. Bevel both edges of the transition to 15 degrees....this will 'ramp down' the transition onto the tile and hardwood. The thinnest part of the transition edges should be about 1/4". If the hump changes the tile to flooring height difference from the 1/4" then adjust the rabbet to compensate for the difference.

If the tile is cut in a straight line, you could ramp the flooring up a little with shims so it is flush with the tile. You will want to have a header board against the tile that would be full width, 4 inches. Since the tile is already high at the doorway compared to the field, if you add a threshold at the door it will get the finish worn off quickly compared to the rest of the hardwood floor. Leave a gap between the header and the tile of one half grout width that you can fill with sanded caulking to match the tile grout. Tar paper layers will make an exact shim that will not compress under the header board. You can start the shim a few inches before the header board and then make the height exact with a strip of tar paper right next to the tile, a minor slope. This will enable you to have the factory finish, if you are using pre-finished flooring.
If you are just a little high with the transition piece shim, this will protect the sharp edge of the tile where it has been cut from chipping if something is dropped on the edge of the tile, if it is not a factory edge.

Thanks!

I did not mention that I am putting in pre-finished. Looks like I have some options!

Matt

Pete - you said



Just so I understand - What are you suggesting as a header board? - a piece of the flooring that is run perpendicular to the field, placed along the tile? Or some fabricated piece I come up with?

Matt

If you have to do any finishing yourself get a high quality polyurethane and apply several coats. Last N Last is a high end polyurethane.

A piece of flooring makes the header board. You may rip it to fit the opening as needed. You may use the T&G for joining the floor. If the header has a factory edge that's best. You should ease the edge with unfinished flooring before it is laid so the finish can protect the edge.
Typically the floor/tile joint will be under a door if present.
A full width piece is best. Cut the tongue if it is against the tile

A prefinished Reducer is also an option, and is very easy to put in yourself. Check for a matching one with your flooring supplier. For consistency you may want a reducer or t-cap at both the even and uneven openings to tile. For a 1/4 difference, you may be able to use the same t-mold at both doorways, just angle the piece a little at the uneven one. Use the track if the molding comes with one or just PL to secure it in place.

This is a third option though - the others above will look better for a bit more work.

Thanks again, Pete! Hopefully just one more clarification question - not sure I follow this sentence:



Matt

If you decide to rip the flooring so it fits across the opening instead of using a full width plank you will have an edge that needs to be eased. Easing the edge is just using 80 grit sandpaper or a block plane and 120 grit paper to round the corner of the top edge that was cut by the saw to get it ripped to the right width. A little stain and finish will protect the raw newly eased edge. The easing will protect the edge from splintering and allow both the stain and finish to coat the corner, where a sharp edge will not take finish correctly.
A factory edge on the flooring will have a micro-bevel, which has the easing from the factory.

Ahhh! OK - I see what you are saying now. Thanks so much!

Matt