OK my original post was dumb, figured it out, no sense in wasting the thread and creating a new one. I'll put my issue here:

Here's my issue. Refer to the image below.

I was told by the flooring guy/supplier that the exterior walls of the house are generally the straightest/squarest; and the interior can vary. He suggested this measurement below off the front of the house.

I measured off the front wall of the house in two spots so that I could snap a line all the way down the hallway, to make sure that the hallway was parallel with the front (rest of) of the house.

I measured 14'4" off the front of the house in two spots, and pulled it down the hallway and snapped a line. I measured down the hallway from that line to that hallway wall on the bottom of the pic, and I'm getting 5" about the whole way, so it is parallel.

I then measured off the top of the staircase, and I am getting 2' 10 3/4" and 2' 10 1/2". I've got a 1/4" difference out of square over a 3' area (top of the stairs.)

Obviously if I just throw the nosing on the top of the steps and do the whole room off of that, then it will be awful damn slanted through the rest of the house. I need to somehow make up that distance on that top step.

I have a couple ideas. One is to somehow cut back along the nosing so that the overhang is angled, so that it lines up square on the rest of the floor.

Another is to somehow shim out one side of the riser by ~1/4"...I don't know how though. Keep in mind that it has to match up with that whole riser. Sanding in the other side by 1/4" and straightening that out would be a nightmare.






Here is another solution:
Use shims on the side that is 1/4" in, nail/glue them to the risers, shim out the rest of the riser of course to get a decent solid backing, and then glue or nail a sheet of luaun to that? Then it will be square with the rest of the floor. Of course then that step might be a little out of square, but better that than the hardwood?

I need to get luaun anyways because I need some type of veneer on these risers.

[img]OK my original post was dumb, figured it out, no sense in wasting the thread and creating a new one. I'll put my issue here:

Here's my issue. Refer to the image below.

I was told by the flooring guy/supplier that the exterior walls of the house are generally the straightest/squarest; and the interior can vary. He suggested this measurement below off the front of the house.

I measured off the front wall of the house in two spots so that I could snap a line all the way down the hallway, to make sure that the hallway was parallel with the front (rest of) of the house.

I measured 14'4" off the front of the house in two spots, and pulled it down the hallway and snapped a line. I measured down the hallway from that line to that hallway wall on the bottom of the pic, and I'm getting 5" about the whole way, so it is parallel.

I then measured off the top of the staircase, and I am getting 2' 10 3/4" and 2' 10 1/2". I've got a 1/4" difference out of square over a 3' area (top of the stairs.)

Obviously if I just throw the nosing on the top of the steps and do the whole room off of that, then it will be awful damn slanted through the rest of the house. I need to somehow make up that distance on that top step.

I have a couple ideas. One is to somehow cut back along the nosing so that the overhang is angled, so that it lines up square on the rest of the floor.

Another is to somehow shim out one side of the riser by ~1/4"...I don't know how though. Keep in mind that it has to match up with that whole riser. Sanding in the other side by 1/4" and straightening that out would be a nightmare.






Here is another solution:
Use shims on the side that is 1/4" in, nail/glue them to the risers, shim out the rest of the riser of course to get a decent solid backing, and then glue or nail a sheet of luaun to that? Then it will be square with the rest of the floor. Of course then that step might be a little out of square, but better that than the hardwood?

I need to get luaun anyways because I need some type of veneer on these risers.

Dumb post...deleted.

Figured this part out too.

I'll answer the easy question. Cut starting from the finished side (from top to bottom).

That being said, if you will use shoe or quarter round, it's probably not a huge issue anyway.

Thanks

I think I made the thread too long w/ too much detail. I always do that.

You should be using a base cap moulding on top of the skirt boards. It would extend up on the right side and then run underneath the landing nosing on the top right side where I assume there will be a guard rail installed. An alternative would be to use a cove or Scotia mold (inside corner).

Landing nosing's are wider than a standard stair nose. They normally are 5 1/4" wide and are necessary so the guard rail will have solid support. You would miter the landing nosing and run it at the top of the steps too.

Look at photo number 22 http://www.custom-surfaces.com/11.html

Thanks for that information Jerry. I didn't know about the landing nosing; but it makes sense that it should be wider. I wonder why when they came out to measure and add up what I needed, they didn't put me down for the wider stuff for that area. I'm going to get ahold of them when I get off of work today to see about getting them. I hope it's not a long wait though.

Yes there will be a railing installed. I'm not sure what skirt boards are so I don't know what you mean by that though. When you saiy run underneath the landing nosing, do you mean that it it runs up to the bottom of the overhang, or it actually runs up to the height of the drywall, and is 'behind' the overhang?

I spoke with the supplier, he said that the pre-finished doesn't come in a 5 1/4", so I will have to use this. There won't be any weight on the side with the railing anyways; and hopefully this top stair nose will hold up!!

OK I edited this thread and took out all the garbage and things I figured out, so that I could condense it down. Put my question up in the first post and deleted the original one, instead of making yet another new thread. (Don't want to flood the place )

Some things we noticed: There is a spacer in the top right behind the riser, pushing it forward in that groove. If I were able to remove that spacer, that would take up that 1/4" that is screwing me up. It would make that next step down slightly out of square but I probably wouldn't notice that.