Hello,

Going to start my install this weekend and had a couple more questions on finishing touches.

I have now read the postings here regarding tile butting and carpet butting.
http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/installation/against-tile-stone.htm
http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/installation/carpet-against-wood-floors.htm
My flooring retailer never mentioned either of these as a possibility....probably in order to sell me some spendy moldings.

Cost isn't an issue now since I already own the moldings...I'm now trying to decide where and or if to utilize them.

Here is my layout:


The west entry will have a tile landing...there is vinyl over 1/2" underlayment there now. So the heights are close now and I can make sure that the tile will be close when it goes in as well. I have a t-molding for that area. Would you use it or do the butt and caulk tile method? The seam is around 5 feet in length, so its a bit more involved than a doorway. If I do use the t molding does it just butt up against the baseboard or is it undercut etc? Is it just glued down?

For the glass slider on the east wall I have a threshold. I've undercut the doorjamb for the flooring already....does the threshold just butt up against the door casings? Glue down?

I also have three carpet transitions in the hallway. I have thresholds for those as well if necessary. I did leave enough carpet on my cuts so I should be able to tuck it with or without the thresholds. My door casings are laid out similar to this one:

If I were to use them to they get under cut or butted?

As usual the devil is always in the details.

BR,

John

We are in the process of installing a wood laminate flooring which will butt up to new carpeting. The carpeting is being installed today so I do not have much time to research this topic. I did read the article about 'carpet-against-wood-floors" but did not see how to finish off the wood floor before tucking the carpet under the wood. My husband is 400 miles away doing this installation so I cannot show him this website. The carpet company wants to use a metal strip between the wood and carpet which I personally do not like. My husband says that we have to use it to keep the wood in place. Is there any to hold the wood in place so that we can have a "flush" threshold verses a "raised" threshold? Thanks

I ended up using a polyurethane adhesive to glue down the flush threshold boards as well as 2.5 rows in my hallway to avoid face-nailing 12 inches out from the wall.

One of my flooring buddies turned me on to loctite PL3X which they use all the time. Its holds strong but it is supposed to be flexible enough to let the floor do its thing too.

I troweled it out with a 1/4 inch trowel at a low angle to end up with more like 1/8 inch glue lines and it matched up height with the flooring just fine and its solid as a rock.

I put in the hardwood first and tucked up to it...don't think you can do it the other way around since the carpet is what you will be cutting and tucking. I had an existing carpet seam right under one transition which was a pain in the butt, but otherwise it worked pretty easily. I laid down 2 rows of tack strip starting about a 1/4 inch back from the ripped down transition piece(no tongues). I stretched and tacked the carpet tight. Then I used the carpet cutter tool that lays right down into the groove to get the perfect length of carpet cut straight. Using a small screwdriver or awl to seat the carpet down into the gap produced a pretty clean looking finished transition.

HTH,

John

The loctite PLX3 is one of your better options, like the comment above states. As a Chicagoland hardwood flooring company, we have used these on installs and like them a lot.