Hi all,

This is my first post here. I am planning a hardwood install (~1100 sqft) and I have been reading everything I can for the past year about how to do the install. I have a pretty good grasp on whats going on (though I am sure questions will pop up but there are a couple items I have not seen firm answers on.

First, my 3/4 thick solid wood floor will be running parallel to a 3/4 inch think marble slab hearth (its, I am guessing, glued down to the subfloor - there actually may be a thin piece of material between the slab and the OSB subfloor but it could just be epoxy or something too). I know I need an expansion gap and I know across the grain needs the biggest gap. However quarter round would be too tall and I am not sure what caulk would look like against the marble (prob not good?). I am not a huge fan of those reducer pieces and it seems like most times I see hardwood it butts right up to the hearth, though maybe I am missing something? Any tips? Would just the ~ 5 foot wide hearth mess up the floor if I didn't put an expansion gap there?

And the bonus question that I have googled but haven't seen expressly written anywhere... My house has a very open floor plan, so the main area I am doing spans across 3-4 rooms and is 37 feet deep. The grain or width of the wood will be going across this 37 feet. Due to that length, would you guys recommend I start in the middle of the room with a spline and work out each way?

Thanks for the time to answer my questions - hopefully after my project I will have a few lessons learned I can pass along to the community!

- Chris

Where possble I like to scribe or tight fit a hearth that can't be undercut. I will leave extra expansion at areas opposite the hearth.

Yes, starting in the middle of a layout and splining is a good idea when possible. Hardwood will move in the direction of least resistance, so essentially your dividing your resistance. Although in the case of tight fitting the hearth....you would want the wood to move away from the hearth. So if possible ...you may want to start at the hearth.

Hey thanks for the help, I really appreciate it. Here is a follow up question though - I have heard the wood will expand from the grove towards the tongue (is that correct?). If so then starting at the hearth and just bumping the wood right up against it is a good idea. The only issue though is since that run is so long, and I would want to spline/change directions on the wood, wouldn't you want the point where it changes directions to be in the middle of the room and going groove to tongue towards the far walls, to utilize the expansion gap under the trim/walls? My fireplace is on a far wall, so it would be at the end of a run. If I were to start at the fireplace as you suggested, then I would have to start on the opposite far end with the other run, and they would meet in the middle with two tongues. Besides the fact that they would both be expanding towards each other, I am also unsure how I connect the two sides, unless I could find/make a row that has two grooved sides?

Did all that rambling make sense lol? Again, thanks in advance for the advice!

Sorry, my head is spinning. Maybe one of my buddies will get the jist of this

Ha, yes sorry. Maybe a quick pic will illustrate what I mean. See link below. I did a quick and dirty photoshop drawing to explain.

So my original plan was to start with a spline on the dotted line and work towards wall B and wall D (the floor joist btw, run B to D).

With that layout, my impression from what I read is that the bulk of expansion movement then will go from the dotted line towards wall B and wall D (where there will be an expansion gap left under the baseboards and drywall)

That is all perfect except that I cant put an expansion gap between the last row of wood and the fireplace hearth on wall D. Its only 3/4 inch thick marble.

If I start on wall D at the hearth as you suggested, that means my other run would have to start from wall B correct? If I do that I will end up with two tongues at the dotted line. That was what I meant about how do you join those boards? A row of wood that has two grooves? Do they make those?

My second question - if I were to start one run at wall B and one run at wall D/the hearth - wouldnt those rows be expanding towards each other and making the problem worse? That is if my understanding is correct, that the expansion will happen from groove towards tongue?

Hopefully that makes more sense. Sorry but thanks again for the help.

https://picasaweb.google.com/duncan288/UntitledAlbum?authkey=Gv1sRgCJi0n_rqi7faFw&feat=directlink

Well I was taught that the movement is in the direction of the tongue, which makes sense concerning two points. #1.... This is the least resistance in relation to the angle of the fastener. #2... If you start in the middle of the room, then spline, then install in opposite directions...It only makes sense that the wood will be moving away from the spline point toward the expansion spaces on both sides of the room, and dividing the area of expansion in 1/2. It would makes no sense to have the planks moving toward one point in the middle of a room.

I would start off the marble and install to B and spline and backfill on either side towards D

My plan too Jeff.

Then it must be the right way.

Tear out the marble hearth and put a new one on top of the wood.

The job I am on nw, I talked the people into doing that on my floating hardwood subfloor job. Ha ha a floating marble hearth, go figure. Heck..I didnt want to hassle with going around it. I gots enough problems.

Could leave the expansion and picture frame the hearth with a matching marble threshold.

In areas where you have to leave a gap between wood and a masonry product, they make a sanded flexible caulk in many colors that looks decent.

Thanks guys....

The threshold isn't a bad idea and I figured thats worst case. I would prefer not to have to resort to that but I would also not want the floor to buckle!

Alternatively, if I start at the marble as you guys said and go all the way to B, thats about 33-34 feet. Is that too long? Ie am I going to see a lot of buckling/cupping with that length of wood going in the same direction?

Side note - I would prefer not to rip up the marble. Ideally it ends up close to flush with the wood floor.

Thanks again,

Chris