I will be installing 3/4 inch solid hardware, and not sure how to go about this. The banister molding has a beveled edge and is curved, which will prevent me from butting flooring to it. On one side I could remove and reattach, but the other side is built in to the stairs going down. Any suggestions or ideas? Here are some links to photo's. http://lh5.ggpht.com/_sS18JwQhSdc/SoBMm ... CF0013.JPG and http://lh4.ggpht.com/_sS18JwQhSdc/SoBN0 ... CF0028.JPG Thank you. Terry

Well Terry, you have an interesting project ahead of you. If it was only fitting the hardwood to that rail plate, it would be no biggie, but you have to somehow marry up the new nosing that you will be installing at the top of the stairs to it as well.

Anyway, for what its worth, this is how I would approach it, if I didn't want to dis-assemble the railing system.

Using a specialty saw such as a FEIN supercut or multi-master (or one of the several cheaper knock-offs coming into the market) you need to cut the bevelled edge off the plate leaving a straight 3/4 inch edge to fit the hardwood to. You could actually cut it back sufficiently to eliminate the rounded corner; and cut along the short piece leading towards the stairs the same amount.
The nosing you are going to install will generally have a "half-round" edge to it so scribe the location precisely where the nosing will meet up to the railing plate and use a small sharp chisel, enough time, and sufficient skill to make a good junction between the nosing and the plate.
You will now have a square edged line as shown below to fit the new floor to. This is of course assuming that the plate is 3/4 inches thick, which it certainly appears to be.



k, i put a drawing here but it didnt take, lol so I hope you get the gist of what I am trying to describe.

It appears that your carpet is just wrapped around a 2X2 at the top of the stairs, so you will need remove that prior to fitting and installing the new nosing.

I am sure there are more (and better) ideas, but that is the way I would approach the problem since it is the least invasive solution for the rail system.

Dennis's suggestion is certainly a good way to go. It will not be easy cutting a good straight cut on that already installed rail plate. I would put a floor board next to the plate first to confirm they both are the same thickness and that the plate's round over creates a valley in the junction of the two pieces. If you are fortunate, the rail plate will be a little thicker than your flooring and the roundover will terminate nicely to the top of the flooring. That would be ideal. Then you would simply need to install the flooring "net" ( tight ) to the rail plate. If that is NOT the case and you do not want to attempt to cut that rail plate, an alternative way that is not as nice but will work is to install a thin piece of matching flat stock between the two pieces. Sorta like a mini threshold. It's not real pretty but it does solve the problem. Installing the landing strip/stair nosing will be easy IF the rail plate is thicker. Simply butt to it.

It would definitely be nice to just fit to that plate "as is", and as Gary says there is that possibility. One other (modified) approach would be to fit to the existing plate as Gary suggests, but rounding over the edges of the new floor to conform. You could always say you planned it that way as an additional feature. Of course you will have to stain and finish these rounded over edges to match the rest of the floor.

Some of the rail plates used by builders around here are 5/4" stock and are thicker. Also, some stair builders have been known to fur up those plates to ensure the carpet does not sit above it. I've seen plenty that were furred up with shims and/or plywood. It would sure make the job easier if it were thicker/taller, wouldn't it.

Oh ya, you got that right. The only minor obstruction would be cutting to that small 90 degree curve at the junction of the two pieces. Other than that, clear sailing.

Another way would be to back cut the end that but to the eased edge, on a 45º, or use a router with a burr flute, to round out the cut to similarly match the eased edge, So there is a tight fit.

If the flooring is thicker than the picket plate, you will have to get creative.

I have inspected jobs, for different things and I noticed where they used T molding, there in a case like that. It actually didn't look to bad, considering the cost to rebuild the railing system.

Ya, Floorguy; t-moulds actually dont look to bad in that application.
As an inspector (you are, arent you?) how do feel about a t-mould running acrodd the top of the stair opening? Or would you end it at the end of the rail plate, and join it to the nosing somehow?

I appreciate all the feedback. At this point I think I might try to get a hold of a fein saw or equivalent and trim away that edge, and if need be finish it with the t-molding. Just hoping for it to stop raining and dry up a bit. Thanks again, Terry