I have just purchased the materials to lay a floating bamboo floor over a gypcrete subfloor in the living room of my townhouse. I chose to use "greenwood" 6" X 6' 3ply engineered snap click planks.

I am also putting new tile in a small area around our fireplace. The store told me I have to use T-molding to transition from the wood to the tiles, leaving a gap for expansion. Unfortunately, I really hate the look of this and was wondering if there are other options.

I am considering the possibilty of using a siliconized acrylic colored caulk to fill the gap between the 2 sufaces. Something like this:
http://www.installertools.com/cgi-bin/I ... 820-21-929

A couple points regarding expansion issues:

The flooring will be on the 2nd floor, there is no danger of moisture from the subfloor.

I live in San diego where rain and humidity are relatively uncommon.

I read that most buckling occurs across the width rather than the length and on one side there will only be a width of 6 planks on side of the tiles and 3 on the other.

Hopefully this image will post. This is drawn according to 3" planks, but in
reality they will be 6".

Floating floors need transitions more so, then any other installation method.



Bamboo is not wood, so you cannot compare the swelling in the width only to wood. Bamboo moves everywhere, if it gains or looses moisture.

Your flooring being engineered helps.

Set the ceramic so the flooring slides underneath. Attach 1/2" durock or something then lay the ceramic on top. Allow at least 3/8" expansion on the perimeter in your case. I haven't heard of a snap click Greenwood.

Greenwood Bamboo

Good idea with the ceramic guys, but if its not perfect there is the possibility of the ceramic edge snapping. The bamboo will move regardless and the caulk will get messed up. Besides it looks totally unprofessional and not advised by any manufacture I know of.

How bout this?


http://www.schluter.com/english/product ... ion-a.html

Thanks for the input everyone. Ken if I understand your suggestion correctly, it means the edge of the tiles would be exposed and at a height greater than the wood floor. I'm not sure if that's to my liking. In addition Ernesto's comment about improper installation leading to cracked tiles doesn't sound like a good match for my lack of experience. Certainly a better solution than using caulk though.



It's proper name is Cross Ply and it's listed on the link you included. It's under the "solid wood" section at the bottom. It is a click together system.

Ernesto, I do like the schluter-Deco product shown on the link you included, but this does not seem to leave room for expansion. Are you referring to the schluter Reno-U or V? These look like they may cover the gap between the 2 surfaces, but would require the tile to be a bit higher than the wood. I certainly do like this option and would appreciate it if you could elaborate a bit on exactly which item(s) would be most suitable.

Thanks in advance,
Al

The most suitable is the T-molding supplied by the manufacterer. Like it or not, since you are selecting a floating floor, you should install per manufacterers recommendations. I've installed many T-molds between tile and wood; it looks quite good if you take the time to do it well ( tight miters and no gaps)

I would use the Reno-MV. It is solid Brass and like it says will patina with age. Nice stuff and quite applicable for this type installation_tile_ to wood. You said you wanted something different. Other than that I would use the Reno-T. Your tile will be higher than the wood yes? Hopefully you will use a backer board under the tile, no? Thats assuming the subfloor is wood on the second level.

If the tile is too low you could upgrade to a thicker stone like material like travertine.

Check out the application. It has a close-up. Don't forget to scroll down for the correct selection.

http://www.schluter.com/english/product ... pplication

Patina is not a verb.

Breakin' eggs,

CHU

Mr Fisher is spot on. This is an easy fix. Simply jack the tile. It will look cleaner than using some clunky-arsed t- mould.

Stategically placed pure silicone will negate any potential edge fracture issues with the tile while allowing sufficient movement of the wood floor.

Unless the tile is stone, the edge will not be glazed if it is ceramic. Do you really think T-mold looks bad when it frames a hearth? I always thought it looked kinda cool; like a picture frame. Granted , my fav is to have both surfaces flush with a header around the tile but not possible with a floating bamboo floor. Agreed , some of the T-molds are WAY TOO BIG (Harris-Tarkett Longstrip comes to mind) but with a little searching, I'm sure a nice looking one is available. You could substitute maple instead of bamboo for the trims. The color is very similar.

If you're gonna screw around,why not just take a piece of flooring and cut a rabbet on each side of a rip and then bevel each side of the same?

I thought we were giving diy info here.

Edge of tile will chip. And like Gary says edge of tile is not finished. Not advised. Bamboo/wood will splinter on end if grain not run correctly.

I too, have a soft heart. I go overboard though. I have cut back, only giving them enough info to hang themselves.

Better double check the source Al. I'd hate to see a bait and switch here

Uh oh, edited by admin.

If you guys are going to give out DIY advise on ceramic installs.. Make certain it is within installation specs.