I have nailed down many floors and am looking at my first concrete subfloor.

All normal instincts tell me to use an engineered product over this above grade slab; but we really want to put in real Bamboo - Bamstar which I have nailed down before. The manufacture says it is OK to glue down on the slab after proper moisture testing and sealing the slab. They reccomend using Bostick adhesive with the moisture block.

Depending on who I ask - the opinions are quite varied. I want to know if glueing direectly to the slab is still a bad idea? If so, why do many manufacturers warranty solid wood products being glued down?

Would the Taylors Lockdown System work in this application?

http://wftaylor.com/newlock.php

Or is this just used for glueing down subflooring over concrete?

I am basically trying to figure out which way to go. Best case scenario for me is to glue this floor down directly to the slab. I am searching for some opinions/ideas.

Thanks in advance. I should mention that I am doing this for my future father-in-law....

Thanks

one option that some wood manufacterers require is to install an inexpensive sheet vinyl floor first over your flattened concrete slab. An adhesive that works well with vinyl moisture barriers is Franklin Advantage. This is only an option and shouldn't take the place of moisture testing. But I can pretty much warranty a floor done this way!

"Would the Taylors Lockdown System work in this application? "

Yes. You are above grade. You have most of the VE factors licked already.

Go for it.

THanks Gary - This would serve as the moisture barrier. I just dug deep into the archives and saw some spirited debate on this very subject. We shall see the consensus; the vinyl would keep the floor height low - which we are after. I wonder what others think?

nevermind

I don't think Taylor recommends their waterbased with a solid floor.

Your adhesive needs to be packaged in a metal bucket, not a plastic bucket.

I agree with the Bostik's MVP along with their "BEST" adhesive.

Parabond has a nice product for that application also.

Franklin has a real good system, too.

I have glued down solid Bamboo over concrete, but I tested everything for high moisture vapor levels.

Unless you are tight with another adhesive company rep, I'd stay with what the manufacturer recommends. It's just easier if problems arise.

The problem is that even after testing a slab. The ve rate can change exceeding the manufactures limits. I would advise the customer of this. Hopefully Bosticks would buy it like Taylor does.

I'm thinking the Taylor sealer for sheetgoods along with their sheetgoods adhesive. Then use the Bosticks over the sheetgoods would be the best almost failsafe method.

Thoughts gentlemen?

THanks for the replies. It seems that it is OK to glue down directly as long as I test the slab and check exterior conditions to account for the slab staying dry in the future. Despite warranties there is a greater chance of failure?

Anyone have thoughts on using the vinly as a moisture barrier then gluing to that?

It seems the BEST method would be to seal the concrete, glue down sheetgoods, then glue or nail the floor? I would actually rather nail if i can convince them the height gain is not such a big deal. Unfortunately this floor will meet other floors in 3 places.

Thanks for any other imput...

Is my post on invisable mode?




Float those areas out with underlayment also to even out the transition areas. $$$$

Hey, expensive but it works.

Ernesto - sorry for the miss, I mostly do construction work and sheetgoods in my world means plywood. I see you mean vinyl. Sorry for the mistake. Seems like that is the best way and most economical... Thanks

What happened to the caveat that you should use the same glue for the vinyl, as you do for the hardwood?

???????????

Me no understandie. Compatibility issues spring to mind.

Compatability issues with using one manufactures patch and anothers adhesive, or different patches.

I nerver understood why one had to use the same adhesive under vinyl as the wood. Granted one may be stronger than another. But the different floorings are as well, stronger than the other.

I guess that rule would apply if you were using cheap adhesive.

I've seen it first hand and heard it many times. Expensive lessons. Didn't happen to me personally, but it did happen to the guy that taught me the trade or before many knew what urethane adhesives could do to underlayments with latex adhesives.