I'm helping (installing) a hardwood floor for someone just back home from the sandbox. The flooring is 3/4" x 3 1/2" x random lengths.
The flooring store they bought the wood from last week refuses to
exchange any of the boxes even though we opened one of the boxes in the store and they could see that some of the wood is bowed lengthwise.
Other than screwing a board down to the sub-floor and prying against it
lengthwise, or using a contraption similar to a power stretcher for carpet, is there a simple way to ease these pieces into place? We joked that my hydraulic jack (port-a-power) would work and his honey didn't see the humor. Would it be okay to apply paraffin or beeswax along the tongue to prevent binding on pieces that had to be worked lengthwise to straighten as they were nailed in place?

Thanks,
Mac

Screw down a triangle wedge, make another wedge with the groove side. Lay it up ther and tap it in until the board is tight, and nail it off.

Thanks,
A triangle wedge seems to be an easier solution.

Mac

Depending on how bad it is you may be able to get away with not screwing anything down. Here's how I straightened all but the worst of my 5" plank -

Cut a 24" long 2 x 4. Place one end of it against the worst part of the bow. Stand on the 2 x 4, and whack the opposite end. The hammer drives the 2 x 4 to straighten the board, and your weight keeps the bowed board from pushing it back.

I had to use the wedge trick in a couple of places where there just wasn't room to do the above, but out in the field it worked great.

[quote="Floorguy"]Screw down a triangle wedge, make another wedge with the groove side. Lay it up ther and tap it in until the board is tight, and nail it off.[/quote]

those things are life savers!!!!!!!!! everyone installing a floor should make a couple of them. i used softer 3/4" plywood for mine because the slide held better against the boards. those wedges will straighten out the toughest board you have.

I appreciate the tips very much.
In a few places, we were able to tap a chisel agains the sub-floor and use it to lever the board in position before nailing.
Most of the floor is installed and is looking very nice.

Thanks, Mac

The Hacks use screwdrivers wedged into the subfloor to pry the boards into the existing row.

Hacks? I do that all the time when nailing to plywood. It works great. It is a waste of time on OSB, though.

By the way, with regard to wedges, what I like to do is screw down a little square of plywood about an inch and a half from the board and then drive two opposing 25 degree wedges toward one another.

The setup lasts forever.

Sooner or later I am gonna break down and buy the other powerjack.(the one you screw to the floor.) Every now and then I run into a situation that makes me wish I had one on the bus.(like when I use wedges) heehee

Were you aware that at one time, this "technique" was in the NOFMA installation manual? I also do this occasionally. But if a board is so badly bowed that it requires wedges, jacks and what have you, I just put it aside and don't try to install it. There was a song from the 70's that said, "If it don't fit, don't force it." I agree! Hmmm. Or was that from OJ's trial. "If it don't fit, you must aquit."

Or maybe it was that song by the Eagles. "If ya can't be with the one you love, cheat on 'em."

Sorry guys to offend so easily.....just that most quality installers will toss or cut and use in closets or other places. It was a little joke that no one got. Also since the powernailer powerjack I've never had to wedge anything or use a screwdriver. If it's that bowed I don't use it or nail a piece of scrap to the floor and get out the powerjack. I love that thing for handsfree board engagement.

Is there any pictures showing the use of these "wedges" that are being discussed. I just cant quite picture it.

Thanks

http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwo ... n-tips.htm

Thanks, is this method for use with only floating or glue down floors? The link doesnt show use with Hardwood nail down floors.