Hi, I have two sets of carpeted stairs that I want to replace the carpet with solid oak treads/risers on. I was hoping to get advice on options for laying down the new treads and risers.

The stairs are straight runs and I have access from below. I posted some photos of my first set to do here assuming I can post a link to Picassa (carpet removed):
http://picasaweb.google.com/payork/Repl ... directlink

I read the article on this site about putting on new treads/risers. The first set of steps I am doing has 7 treads and 8 risers (other set has 6 treads/7 risers). Current tread is 11 1/4" deep (backing into the riser) and 1 1/8" thick. The current Riser to top of tread is about 7". I will be replacing the carpet above and below the stairs with 3/4" hardwood flooring after doing the stairs.

My carpet and underlay was about 1" thick. I purchased and am currently staining Solid Red Oak treads and risers. The new treads are 11 1/2" deep and 1" thick. The new risers are 7 1/2" tall by 3/4" thick. My stairs are about 36 1/2" wide (I purchased 48" boards).

My plan is to place the new treads on top of the current ones to keep the stairs at the same height as they were with the carpet. I would glue between the treads and was wondering if it is ok to screw the treads together by going up from the bottom (so something like a #8 one and three-quarter inch screw?). For the risers I would glue and use my nail gun to drive in 2" finishing nails.

I currently have 1 1/4" overhang on the steps (tread running past the riser). This part I am stuck on. I have read two ways to handle the overhang. One is to cut it off but another is to build out underneath to make it flush.

BUILD OUT -- basically add 1 1/4" to my current risers (buid them out) to make them flush with the end of the current tread. I could use 3/4" and 1/2" plywood to do this. That would reduce my tread by 3/4" if I'm doing the math correctly. There are books and articles on the web suggesting this method.

CUT CURRENT OVERHANG -- this seems to be the traditional method. So I would cut off the 1 1/4" overhang, then attach my new risers to the old ones and put the treads in place after that.

Alternatively, I could take out the current treads and put the news ones in their place (same thing with the risers).

Thank-you for your help
Peter

Typically on my staircase installations, I will cut the tred overhang off, prepare, and install over existing.

I will do it that way also as long as the rise stays within code. otherwise I remove the existing treads and shim to level and code.

Grey area "code". Some stuff is "grandfathered". Plus we're floor "coverers", there's fine lines depending on the application we're performing.

Thank-you. That's where I'm leaning - cut off the current overhang and not messing with the treads that are already in place.

How about the actual installation of new treads. Is it ok to secure the treads with screws drilled up through the bottom of the current tread (with glue in-between the current and new tread as well)?

Peter

Nothing wrong with that. Most of the time I dont have the luxury of access through the bottom. Typically I will full spread the treds with a urethane adhesive, 1/8"x1/4" teeth. I'll usually shoot a few brads at the back,(hidden by the riser), just to keep the treds in place untill the adhesive sets.

I have excellent access from my crawl space for both sets of steps except for the very bottom step/tread of each stair case. For those bottom steps, I only have about 6" clearance to work within (like working in a 6" high box basically).

So guess what, I get a new tool:-) This one is what I was going to pick up:
Milwaukee M12 Cordless Right Angle Drill/Driver Kit — 3/8in., Model# 2415-21
I just tried the hardware store beside my work place - 7corners but they were out of them.

Peter

I'm always trying to stretch and justify reasons for new tools myself

Terra, Gotta ask...Why do you feel like you need to screw from the bottom? Are you full spreading adhesive on the top? If it's just to buy a new tool....By all means carry on!

Screw in from the bottom is to avoid screw holes on top. I was going to do a full spread of glue as you suggested. But I was also told that a combination of glue and screws would be best (not just glue). From your experience, it sounds like just the glue is usually sufficient? I guess that makes sense since people install flooring with just glue. I'm pretty new to all this.

I did get my Milwaukee right angle drill anyway:-) Took three stores before I found it at a Home Depot.

Peter

Yes, A fullspread tred isn't going anywhere, once the adhesive sets.

ok, well I hope I did not create any code violations by cutting off my current overhang. I did not quite follow your process with glue Floorologist. I used adhesive from a tube instead and not a full spread (I used screws up through the bottom though). I posted some photos of the process/completed stairs here. My son, the supervisor is in the photos and you can tell the late hour that I finished the steps by his PJs!).
http://www.hardwoodflooringtalk.com/gal ... ?cat=18829

Thank-you for your help.
Peter

Looks good.

Enjoy them for years to come!

They look great. I got a job for you here in Tucson if you want.

Thanks for the pictures Terra, looks great! Handy screwgun

Thanks for your comments. I appreciate the hard work you "professional" installers have to do day to day. I work at a desk (IT/web stuff) and my arm is still sore from pulling carpet staples, never mind using the flooring nailer (other project), dragging around 70 lb boxes of flooring and (in my case anyway) painting ceilings and walls.

I'll be starting on my main floor next. 500-600 sq ft replace carpet with 3/4" oak (its my kitchen, dining and living room and entry way).

Stephen, its tempting. I'm in Minneapolis and we are at 12 Fahrenheit at the moment.
Peter