Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Stair Tread / Riser Interface and Railing Question
PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 11:29 am 
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Joined: Sat Jul 17, 2010 9:50 am
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Hello All,

I've been steadily plugging along and have nearly 1000 S.F. of Artisan 3/4" pre-finished maple down in the upper floor of my split-level house. So far a very interesting learning experience. I'm gearing up to do the stairs and have a few questions. The house is a typical split-level (for this area): main entry door opens onto a small landing with stairs going both up and down. The stairs leading to the lower level are fully closed while the stairs leading up have a short railing on the bottom 3 steps, the edges of those steps are open on the railing side.

I like the contrast of painted white risers but my wife very much does not. She would like the risers to match the treads. I'll be using the same flooring from the upper floor for the treads with stair nosing.

First question: when using the solid hardwood for the riser, how much (if any) of a gap should I leave above the tread? It seems a gap here will be unsightly.

Second question: for the three stairs going upwards that are open I am currently planning to make the 'return' by trimming the width of pieces of nosing and mitering the corners together. What are your thoughts on this?

This forum has been a huge help and I really appreciate all of the insight! I have a great deal of respect for the crafts-people that do this for a living.

Thanks!
Charlie


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Amish made hardwood

 Post subject: Re: Stair Tread / Riser Interface and Railing Question
PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 11:39 am 
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You don't have to leave a gap. Just rest the riser right on top of the tread. That is how I would do the open treds also, by framing it in with a miter.


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 Post subject: Re: Stair Tread / Riser Interface and Railing Question
PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 7:33 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 17, 2010 9:50 am
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jeff burstein wrote:
You don't have to leave a gap. Just rest the riser right on top of the tread. That is how I would do the open treds also, by framing it in with a miter.



Thanks very much for the response Jeff. I think I've got most of the gameplan together for this weekend.

Here's another question; a number of the rough treads are 3/4" particle board with bull-nosed ends. I understand the issue with nailing to particle board as the particle board offers no holding capacity for the fasteners. Since I'm going to be gluing the treads/risers is there still as pressing a need to replace the particle board with plywood? I'll do it if absolutely necessary but at the same time I'd like to avoid the extra time if it won't be gaining me anything.

Thanks again!

Charlie


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