I know this is getting a little off topic but it is only place where I can get good info on the subject - believe me I have tried.

I have almost completed my new Brazilian Cherry stair treads, risers and skirts. Originally I intended to use the existing Maple railing since my rise/run is virtually identical to the original stairs and I figured I could stain it to roughly match the treads. However, my tread supplier says he can supply Brazilian cherry railing parts. I know that railing installation is one of the most challenging aspects of finish carpentry but I have some written info on the procedures and my railing is a very simple straight over the top railing with colonial balusters. It consists only of an starting easement, over easement and tandem cap. I also have the old railing to use as a reference. The article recommends the railing be made before the newel posts are installed.

Here are the main points I got from the article. Any tips or alternate methods are welcome.

1. Cutting easements - In the article they use a pitch block to determine the cut point on the easement. They also screw the part to a piece of plywood to hold it square in the miter box.

2. Rail bolts - I assume this is the best way to join fittings to the railings. My current railing looks like it uses some type of metal splice to join parts - I can't see the metal but I can see a line of filler running across the joint and it looks terrible. The article gives very detailed info on rail bolts so I should be OK.

3. Baluster installation - My stairs had 2 or 3 balusters per tread alternating. My run is 9&7/8". The article says the on center for the balusters is half the run for 2 balusters per tread but I think the code has been updated. If I will have 5 balusters for 2 treads my on center spacing should be -

Spacing = 2*9&7/8/5 = 3.95" or 3&61/64". (Should have made run 10" even!)

Is this right? Is there an accepted spacing between the nosing and baluster or should it be evenly spaced between front and rear nosings? My balusters have a 1&1/4" base.

Is there any special technique for drilling the holes for the balsuters? I'm not using a plowed railing.




Thanks

I don't install railings for a living so I'll tell you I know but there may be a better way. You could post your question on JLC online forum
http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=7
1) Easements..............don't know what that means or what you're talking about.
2) Rail bolts are best. That puttied zig-zag line you saw was from a stair tool that shoots that fastener into the joint. It's used it picture frames as well.
3) Baluster spacing should be even and the same for every tread, You can't alternate 3 then 2. Code rquirement is balusters must 4" oc OR LESS. Spacing is determined by the newel posts, not stair nosings. You measure the distance between the newels, not stairs treads or nosings. Spacing should be even and doesn't matter how they land on the tread.
Example: It's exactly 10' between you two newels (the center of the newel, not the side) 10 'x 12"=120"divided by 4" =30 balusters 4" oc - 2 ( which are the newels) =28 divided by # of treads =how many balusters per tread. Buluster location is determined on the RAILING, not the tread but you need to take into account how the balusters will fall on the treads.
Drill holes with new brad point drill bit, not spade bit. Glue into position with yellow glue and brad nail through the side of the railing into the top of baluster

Gary or others,

I'm about to cut the notches for the newel posts (One starting step newel and one landing newel, no volute). The original newel post centerlines were placed on the inboard side of the outer carraige framing, which would put the centerline for the balusters 4.5" inside the tread. I think this is way too much. It was probably done this way because the false treads used did not have as much overhang.

Anyhow, the book I have says that the centerline of the balustrade should be in the center of the miter skirts thickness. This would put the center of the balusters (mine have 1&1/4" square bottoms and tread nosing is 1.5") 1&7/8 inside the tread (1&1/2 + 3/8 ).

Since my newel posts are 3" square, after cutting the notch in the starting tread, I would only be left with 3/8" of tread on the outside of the notch. I don't think this is a good idea. I think the best solution would be to put the centerline of the balustrade on the outside edge of the skirt which would put the outside of newel post flush with the outside edge of the tread. Then the center of the balsuters would be 1&1/2" inside the tread (about 1" to the edge of the baluster). Is this the best solution?


Thanks

I'm no expert on railings so I'll tell you what I've most often seen done. The outside edge of the balusters lined up with the outside edge of the skirt. If you have 1&1/4" returns then the joint is the guide for lining up the outside edge of the balusters. Obviously, the newel would be past this point but typically, the newels on the bottom are installed on a larger, longer tread that has rounded ends. Look at these photos.
http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwo ... .php?t=211
http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwo ... .php?t=185
Do you see where the holes are drilled for the baluster dowels? this shows that when the balusters are installed, the outside will lined up with the return joint. Also notice how the newels are installed. They sit on top of the floors and treads and are not cut in. I know sometimes that is necessary but avoid it if you can.

Baluster spacing is not necessarily 4" on center or less. A 4" diameter ball may not pass between any portion of the rail system. With pin top balusters, you can go up to 4 1/2 to 4 3/4" spacing , depending on the dia. of the pin. After determining what your spacing needs to be, adjust it so that they can be evenly spaced on each tread the same. This, IMHO, is the better way to do it appearance wise. Example: 9 3/4" tread = 4 7/8" spacing. From the nose your first baluster would be 2 7/16", then 4 7/8" to the second baluster on the tread, so for each tread. For 1 3/4" sq. top balusters (w/ plowed rail) your spacing could be as much as 5" to 5 1/4", depending on the style of the baluster.
I generally try to set the complete base of the newel on the tread as well, depending on how my layout works.
The "easement" piece referred to is a called an "up easing". Several kinds depending on the intended use. There are starting easing (from starting newel to rail). Landing easing, sometimes referred to as 'goosenecks' ( the vertical length of these varies, depending on how many risers are involved in the transition.

Thanks Gary + Jack,

One other question - I put in a 3/16" deep dado in the bottom/front of the tread where it receives the riser (this was recommended in the book I have). I later realized that this is probably a waste of effort - the riser is not really structural and any gap between riser and tread will be covered by cove or scotia molding anyway. Do you agree?

When I step on some of the treads there is a little creaking which is the tread dado sides rubbing the riser. I haven't put in any glue blocks where the front of the tread meets the riser. The picture I have seen of the glue blocks shows only one screw and I'm not sure if the screw is going into the tread or riser or sort of right in between. I think perhaps they are relying mostly on the glue to secure the block. The other problem is that I put polyurethane on the bottom of the treads before I installed them and thus yellow glue won't bond well. I could chisel off some of the poly if necessary. If you could tell me how you put in the glue blocks I would appreciate it since once I put the landing subfloor on I will no longer have access to the underside of the treads and I'm concerned a glue block may fail later if I don't do a good job.

Thanks

I have worked on lots of stairs and I can tell you that in theory, a dado to recieve the riser in the tread sounds good but in reality, is a waste of effort. Even builders of staircases employing housed stringers rarely dado the risers to the treads. What I would try is applying a quality urethane adhesive in the dado that recieves the riser. You can use the glue blocks from the backside as well if you wish. To install the blocks from behind, use a rectangular wood block and drive a screw up into the tread and another into the riser. Use wood or construction glue as well. You will need to scrape of the poly finish on the backside of the treads just where you are gluing. If, after installation and finishing, the treads still sqweek against the risers, then you'll need to drive a trim head screw down through the tread into the riser.