Hi Everyone, I'm Bob, long time reader, first time poster.

I'm installing hardwood flooring on the second floor, ~4" planks, 3-ply Bamboo and have a few questions. Sure appreciate any help you can offer. I'm in New Mexico, pretty constantly dry and the house is almost always within 65 - 75 degrees.

First question (well... bunch of questions all rolled into one:)

1) There are a few transitions planned (stair nose at the top of the stairs, meeting the tile at the bathrooms). The boards in the field will run east-west, but at the transitions I want to put a plank in perpendicular (north-south) to make a smooth transition. Do people typically cut a new tongue into the ends of the field planks to mate to the perpendicular piece, or just cut them flush and have no tongue/groove at that joint? Will a standard router do the trick or is there a special tool for that? What kind of saw is recommended for facing all the planks into a nice perfect edge?

2) Subfloor is 7/16" TIG OSB and I plan to lay down another layer of 1/2" TIG OSB since the planks will often run parallel to the joists. I'd like a felt layer in there to help with sound - should it go between the 1st OSB layer and the 2nd OSB layer or between the top OSB and the flooring? Suggestions on thickness?

3) Can anyone recommend a concise writeup of installation tips (book, website, etc?) I'd hate to keep bugging everyone about stupid stuff... I'm handy with tools but 1000 sf of snap-lock floating floors is my sole experience in this area.

Many thanks in advance. This board has already taught me a ton of great info!!

- Bob

I cut the groove side when I need to rip a board down for a "header" board. Then the tongue is still available to engage the end butt grooves of the field boards. If you need to make a groove, use a router in a router table with the correct size carbide grooving/rabbeting bit. Use a fence for a guide. Works very well.

Second floor huh? You could use Red rosin paper on top of the second layer of OSB. Install the second layer directly over the first; no need to paper between the two. Plus it will allow you to use glue as well if you want. Or you could use Fortifiber Aquabar "B" or Fortiber Hardwood Flooring Underlayment.

You could start here: http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwo ... -pages.htm

Awesome - Thanks Gary.

I did in fact find another section of this board that I hadn't seen before - the so-called "Yikes" section. Jerry posted this link: http://www.custom-surfaces.com/24.html with some good pics.

High time I got a router table, and I'll read up on red rosin paper and Fortifiber.

Thanks for the links - I had seen those but will re-read. The more I read on here, the more questions I have, the more I realize I don't know... I think I'm going to start in the closet so I can get at least SOME of the learning curve out of the way before I get to the part people will see.

Q: Regarding routing a groove into the butt ends of the field planks - if you cut them all flush using a Festool for example, would you 1) tap them into place w/o staples, then 2) festool the ends flush, then 3) pull them out for routing on the table, or can you route in place?