Once again, thanks folks for all the input on my stairs project. Hopefully this question wraps up my stair project so I can proceed with the installation of my hardwood flooring.

My question, If I wanted my balusters raked to the hand rail to achioeve a 34-36" handrail height. What height balusters would I need for the front and back of the tread. I have read using a 34" in the front and 36" for the back, as well as, 34" in the front and 38" for the back. I have already purchased the 34" and 36" for the stairs and balcony and applied the stain and finish, so I would like to be able to go with the 36". Also, what confuses me when reading some of these manuals is when they state to use a 36" baluster for the balcony height to achieve a 36" rail height, how is this so, since the handrail is 2 5/8" and the balusters are 36". IS that accurate that my end rail is going to be 36" and not approximately 38 5/8".

BTW - my balusters are square type top and bottom, in which I am using a plow rail and placing the bottom of the baluster on top of the tread.

In addition, I want to place the starting newel and landing newel on top of the tread and landing, any guidance as to the heights I would need to trim both newels. I have read and was able to get my hands on instruction manuals for installation and trimming the newels (as well as other parts of the stairs) but am very confused.


Once again, sorry for the long winded questions. any adive would be appreciated.

Mike

Hi Mike, you will need 34" and 38" balusters if you are planning to have two balusters per tread, you can use the 36" and make it three per tread.

No way tell you the cut length and rake because that depends on the tread width and overhang of the nosing. The total rail height is measured from the front of the tread nosing straight up to between 34" and 38", I shoot for 36".

The guardrail heights are normally 36" total rail height but some localities want 39 to 42, better check that locally.

You need a good book to go by, I recommend "Constructing Staircases, Balustrades & Landings" by William P. Spence.

Also print out the IRC stair code 2003 and look at photo 21 for rail heights.

http://www.stairways.org/pdf/2003%20Sta ... SCREEN.pdf

Thanks for the reply. What I have is one set of stairs rise = 6.25" and run=8" and the other set of stairs rise = 6.75" and run = 9.5". Based on the trigometric calculations I did, I would be able to get away with a 36" on the rear baluster and give me about a 35" rail height. Visually, I don't know if I would achieve a baluster rail configuration slope. Based on the calculation I would have a front baluster of 32 3/8" and rear of 35 3/8". I know the 36" rail height is not doable with the 36 rear baluster as I would need to trim the rear to 36 3/8". Does this sound about right to achieve the look I am attempting to do which is the balusters sloping with the rail.

The calculated 4" on center rise is about 3" or 2.84" to be exact.

If I have to go that route of increasing the rear, the only next size available is 41" not the 38", unless I guess special order that size.


Thanks Mike

Yes, you have a plowed rail with square top balusters. The baluster tops should all be the same length with the squared bottoms different lengths. A 41" should work , make your length cut from the bottom and keep all the rake cuts the same on the top part. Not all balusters are made this way but the majority are.

I do my baluster and railing layouts on-site using a framing square, level and ruler. You can substitute some cheap 2x2's to see if you cutting them right as a test.