Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Stains Adherence Gel Stains Conditioners
PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 12:23 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 12, 2006 11:59 am
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Location: yorktown, ny
Eastern knotty pine unfinished , 9 inch wide , 210 sq. feet :
What makes it so hard to stain ? Testing with Minwax oil stains on the eastern knotty pine: some stains either go a light reddish or a light golden brownish but hardly any difference between the different reddish tones or between the different brownish tones no matter what colors I use. Some pro contractor supply store guy where I'm gonna buy the Bona Traffic told me that you don't get much subtle differences in tone with pine.

Drying time.
Was told that because of VOC regulations , Minwax takes way to long to dry, says 8 hrs but people say wait a couple of days to be sure and avoid a nightmare - the poly might not adhere. I don't want to have the rented sander around that long.
Seems like only Bona fast dry stains are what I should use ? Gel Stains ? Any other recommended ? Because I have to drive quite a way to get the test quarts of Bona. Zar ?

Wood conditioners :
Getting all different stories on wood conditioners : minimizes blotchiness - especially on soft pine ; seals the wood/pine - which is necessary or good for the Polyurethane - can't remember now if that applies to both water borne or oil - I'm using Bona Traffic ; don't need it , but then I will need a sealer before the Bona .

Adherence :
What effect does the wood conditioner sealing up the pores of the wood , or the oil stain, or a gel stain have on the poly's adherence ? The people at Bona Kemi tech help said that 90 some % of calls they get relate to Minwax stains - not being dry enough etc and the Poly not adhering.

Gel stains :
Is there any thing wrong with gel stains. Some people / sites / books say they're good for wood like soft knotty pine ?

120 Screen for water based Poly ?
I read that a person should use a 120 screen ( square buff ) on wood that is going to take a water based finish.

Thanks for any help,

My First Floor Marty


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Amish made hardwood

 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 3:16 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 25, 2004 7:42 pm
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Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
I'll tell you what Bill Price tells us finishers. Test, test, test. Before deciding on a stain and finish, make test sample boards of the systems you are considering. And always allow plenty of time for the stain to dry, 48 to 72 hours. The reason? Local air quality management boards are required to meet certain state and federal VOC emisions laws. So they pass local regulations controlling how much solvents products can contain, called VOC regulations. Those solvents control drying. In the past, stains typically dried faster and better. But today, both DuraSeal and Bona have developed quick drying stains that so far, are meeting VOC. If you want to try gel type stains, try it on scrap wood first (test,test,test). These days, I'm only using stains and finishes specifically designed for floors.


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 Post subject: Thank , Gary. Application Question.
PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 10:41 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 12, 2006 11:59 am
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Location: yorktown, ny
( See " the big question " below )
I'm thinking now that I'll go with Bona stains since I'm planning to use Bona Traffic. Imagine that they're made for each other ?

Will soon be testing the stains. Long drive for me to get the Bona stuff.
Most people tell me they don't bother with the wood conditioner ?
Wonder if blotchiness shows up more with darker stains on soft knotty pine ?

HERE'S THE BIG QUESTION : guy at contractor supply store in Norwalk , Ct where I'm getting the Bona stuff tells me that, if you've never applied Poly to a floor before, he'd be really worried I'll screw it up. Something about just the right thickness; if even slightly to thin a coat, no adherence. Advizes the snow plow method : pour out a line then the ( padco I think ) applicator.
Can't get him to tell me why Bona Mega would be any better for me. He says the same application rules apply. Just that I wouldn't have wasted as much money. But it's just a fifteen dollar difference . That'll be the least of my aggravation if things go wrong. Oil we've ruled out for a number of reasons : fumes , our birds and animals, windows open up here in the northeast, temperature variations with the windows open , and time. Also, Wife's against the yellowing effect - go figure. And the other water based polys are just silly . So, some sort of Bona, Mega ,Exterra seems my only choice. I've done lots of plumbing, carpentry, home improvement stuff all my life ; just never happened to finish a floor.

thanks for any help,

Marty


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 6:28 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 25, 2004 7:42 pm
Posts: 4373
Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
Quote:
HERE'S THE BIG QUESTION : guy at contractor supply store in Norwalk , Ct where I'm getting the Bona stuff tells me that, if you've never applied Poly to a floor before, he'd be really worried I'll screw it up. Something about just the right thickness; if even slightly to thin a coat, no adherence. Advizes the snow plow method : pour out a line then the ( padco I think ) applicator.
Can't get him to tell me why Bona Mega would be any better for me. He says the same application rules apply. Just that I wouldn't have wasted as much money. But it's just a fifteen dollar difference . That'll be the least of my aggravation if things go wrong. Oil we've ruled out for a number of reasons : fumes , our birds and animals, windows open up here in the northeast, temperature variations with the windows open , and time. Also, Wife's against the yellowing effect - go figure. And the other water based polys are just silly . So, some sort of Bona, Mega ,Exterra seems my only choice. I've done lots of plumbing, carpentry, home improvement stuff all my life ; just never happened to finish a floor.


Sorry, I can't seem to find a question in here. Are you asking for my approval? If so, consider it granted. :wink:


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