Pete A. wrote:
Cleats or other fasteners that penetrate through the OSB will not hold any better if they protrude from the bottom surface, unless they penetrate a floor joist. Are you trying to hit the floor joists with at least half of the fasteners? If you are good at carpentry you will be able to pre-drill and drive cleats except on the last row of your planks, or even most of a ripped plank.
the first sentence got me a bit confused: are you saying that does not matter if they are 2-1/2" long? as they could be simply 1-3/4 or 2 inches as long as they go thru the plank and 'bite' at least half way onto the plywood?
I can't see how one can hit the joists - literally would have to memorize the layout and place visual clues along the wall or floor for spacing and location....maybe there is another way to do it, but can't even imagine going thru that. I did indeed map the framing joists in order to be sure to hit them when securing down the sub floor - could not trust the existing nail lines as I was able to see there were a few misses - and then the sub floor/framing was reinforced with 2x6 between joists; so had to take advantage of that. However, once I placed the underlayment, all is gone (markings that is)
the nailgun cleats would not sustain hammering - even taking them out (I had to pull a board and remove the nails, turning it upside down)
Manufacturer (Mirage Flooring) recommends minimum 1-3/4" nails or staples and 2" or 2-1/2" finish nails for the first or last rows, and pre-drilled hand driven finish nails for very last/first against wall.
I still can return the 2-1/2" cleats and replace with a shorter type, but they are penetrating well so far...
Still not trusting on regular nailgun finish nails - even at 2 or 2-1/2 inches to do a proper job.
yes, I am learning as I am a homeowner and this is my first installation ( so please be gentle
)