Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Species suggestion for hardwood
PostPosted: Sat Nov 13, 2004 3:18 pm 
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Hi,

Doing a new construction, and putting hardwood in kitchen, dining, and great room. The kitchen cabs are Bertch honey maple with dark granite counters. The great room and kitchen have tons of big windows facing south and because of privacy of the lot, won't have much for window treatments; meaning lots of sunlight on the floors. So I am trying to select a hardwood that will go well with the honey maple cabs and won't change much from the sunlight. There are small kids but no dogs. Any suggestions for a 3/4" solid? Thanks!

Regards,

Dennis


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 8:15 pm 
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Any wood or finish can be effected by the UV rays from sunlight. I see all the time kitchen cabinets that have ambered or been bleached out due to sunlight. This can happen to furnishings, window coverings, floors, etc. So it's important to have realistic expectations if you choose not to use window coverings. First, can you get windows that limit UV rays? I know they are available but is it too late in the construction to have this type of window? If so, there are window films and tints that can protect interiors as well. As far as recommending a floor, I'm no decorator but with maple cabs, I like maple floors. Lauzon makes a solid 3/4" maple in different stain colors with their Polynium finish which has UV inhibiters. If you choose site finished floors, Basic's Street Shoe also has UV inhibiters. Good luck!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 10:54 pm 
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Gary,

Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it. I will check out the Lauzon products.

Regards,

Dennis


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2004 7:56 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2004 7:35 pm
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Location: Coeur 'd Alene, Idaho
Totally agree with everything he said. If your cabs. are birch, stained honey maple and this is DIY how do you feel about hand scraping birch and complimenting everything with a different stain. Same grain patterns but with a different texture and tone. Hand scraping (if you keep it simple) can be easier than sand on site and cheeper to do yourself. I have some really good advice on the topic if interrested. Pros and Cons etc. plus recommended procedures.
Good Luck
William
Heritage Hardwood Floors
Coeur d' Alene, ID


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2004 9:32 pm 
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William,

Thanks for the reply. Sorry for the confusion. Cabinets are Bertch brand cabinets constructed from maple with a honey stain. Actually now the wife is leaning toward natural cherry for the cabs so it is back to square one on the floors. I am generaling the construction and am going to be doing some of the work myself; but I am leaning toward site finished since there will be wood in the kitchen. So this would be subbed out. However the numbers I got today from the top hardwood place in town today scared me a bit (starting at 10.50 sq/ft for select and better red oak) so we may cut back on the amount of hardwood.

Regards,

Dennis


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 Post subject: Prefinished options
PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2004 8:06 pm 
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FYI - Mercier (and I believe Mirage) also has UV inhibitors to reduce colour change.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 28, 2004 8:28 am 
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djarchow wrote:

(starting at 10.50 sq/ft for select and better red oak)



Wow! Where in the world are you?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 28, 2004 5:08 pm 
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Dan Schultz wrote:
djarchow wrote:

(starting at 10.50 sq/ft for select and better red oak)



Wow! Where in the world are you?


Cedar Falls Iowa. This was labor and maerials, but still more than I had budgeted.

Regsards,
Dennis


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 28, 2004 5:14 pm 
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Location: Bonita Springs, Florida
Most of us don't live in the hills Dan :roll:

By the way where have you been?

_________________
See the room scene gallery at Uptown Floors.

Uptown was created by your administrator, offering my high quality 3/4" engineered floors made in the USA. Unfinished and prefinished.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 04, 2004 11:56 am 
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Location: Coeur 'd Alene, Idaho
actually that's a fair quote if including mat'l, labor, and at least three coats of good OMP (oil modified polyeurethane) or better finnish... avg. price here would be around $9.00 ... is this being installed over concrete? That could account for extra markup and labor.
Regards,
William


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 04, 2004 4:22 pm 
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William,

No concrete. This will be nail down over 3/4" sturdi-floor on the main floor.

Regards,

Dennis


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2004 1:16 am 
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Location: Coeur 'd Alene, Idaho
My experience in higher moisture areas i.e. kitchen, utility room, powder room, etc. Stay away from maple, birch, and hickory. All are very hard but are also UNstable and have a huge chance of giving you gaps in joints. Hickory has a very busy appearance if you go with #1 comm. and could desguise any small joint issues. With any wood floor in a kitchen if your finish guy uses at least three coats of a GOOD quality OMP (Basic Streetshoe is a super product as well if you like the look of waterbourne)and you try not to let water STAND for any length of time you wont have to worry about any catastrophic events ... I just posted at your other message board on this same subject.
P.S Don't forget most important thing to relax and enjoy the beauty of your wood floor once it is complete. It is a natural product and has a few issues and if you're like me it is tough to get passed perfectionism far enough to sit back and really love its overall warmth and appearnce.
Take care,
William


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