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 Post subject: Sealers? What's The Hype? Gluedowns On Concrete
PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 5:32 pm 
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Two years ago they didn't exist, now everybody is claiming they must be used. I've been out of the loop guys. Who is using them and who isn't? Any pics or words of wisdom?

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 9:33 pm 
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i've used Duck seal under the Anderson adhesive. Seemed easy enough, but those sealers seem like voodoo to me. I don't do a lot of gludowns, but back in the day, Ive never had a failure with the solvent based Everbond or Frankling 911. Last 2 days, Ive been installing with the Green mannington glue, and cussing it with fervor. My hands smell like solvent, and its just extra work. I'd rather float them over concrete.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 9:58 pm 
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Its been a long time in coming. Everyone seems to jumping on the abatement bandwagon lately. That is not a bad thing.

There are a few companies selling a latex emulsion that will bring 8 pounds down to 3. Bostik sells a product called MVP4 (the new MVP) which is a derivative of Bostiks Best that you use in conjunction with Best and it is awesome. Dritac has their new 7000 epoxy that will hold down 12 pounds. Durabond has an epoxy that will hold down 25 freaking pounds with 2 applications! Bruce just announce Vaporest for use under wood floors in conjunction with Equalizer.

Stauf has 960 which is the coolest thing out there, but they have a 10 pound limit.(The German chemists say it will hold down more) MVP has no limits at all.
Lots of options these days. It's about time.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 11:31 pm 
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Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
I agree! It's about time. Way back when I did lot's of glue down's to concrete, we usually used a vinyl vapor barrier then went over that but it was mostly for new construction. For older slabs, we used 911 or LP and like I've said before, it worked GREAT. Never had problems. But the floors today are different with all the exotics and solid sawns. I'm glad the industry is jumping on the bandwagon. There more competition, the better IMO. It keeps the cost down and innovation continuing. BTW, my distributor told me that Mannington's adhesive was Bostik's Best with a green dye in it so a Mannington rep could tell if it was their adhesive that was used on a warranty claim. Here's the catch. Bostick's Best in a 5 gal pail here costs about $135.00. The Mannington adhesive in a 3.5 pail costs the SAME! :shock: So to keep the warranty, you need to use their overpriced product. :x Although the green dye does help you see how much glue you need to clean off! :roll:


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 12:21 am 
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"Here's the catch. Bostick's Best in a 5 gal pail here costs about $135.00. The Mannington adhesive in a 3.5 pail costs the SAME! [Shocked] So to keep the warranty, you need to use their overpriced product. "



This is a nice read, and Mannington should be called on it.


For some reason, Br-111, quit specifying Stauf, to keep their warranty.




http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/bus ... nuson-Moss

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 1:45 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 26, 2005 9:40 pm
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Location: melb fla
I live on the east coast of florida near the space center right on the water. I really never had a problem with moisture. Me and my dad use LP all the time right on the slab. The problem came when we lost that glue and they couldn't make a good glue right away. They try everything after a few lost floors came the vinyl which IMO made things worst lets put down a moisture barrier then Latex glue with wood on top i may not be able to spell/only went to 9th grade twice but i didn't think that was a good ideal. Then came bostik's leading the pack i never lost a floor to the gray ghost myself its alway been water from somewhere else. One time i new i had a moisture problem talk to bostik's they said use they glue with a vct trowl then nock it down with the flat side let it dry overnight i be good to go i was. That was before they made sealer work good if i rember it was 6/7 pounds comeing up. A buddy of mine thats retire now once pull up carpet layed wood it rise right off the floor in a week they found a broken pipe under slab. Thats what i like when hear how yall do things elsewhere. If i ain't careful i might learn something GOOD LUCK WITH YALLS FLOORS

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 7:49 am 
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Quote:
bostik's they said use they glue with a vct trowl then nock it down with the flat side let it dry overnight i be good to go i was.


I remember that. Use their adhesive as a moisture barrier first, give it a day to cure, then start the installation.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 9:50 am 
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Using MVP is just a better way to do the same thing. It all boils down to getting a uniform membrane thickness. MVP falls flat after you comb it.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 11:52 pm 
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Whats the coverage with a bucket of mvp? i haven't use it before. I might have a job coming up they say its got a moisure problem 2000sf it got a floater down now they want to replace it with forst accents 1/2 inch it on the river. Thanks

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 10:15 am 
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50-70 sq.ft per gallon.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 6:32 am 
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40-45

http://www.bostik-us.com/PDF/hardwood/MVP.PDF

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 9:28 pm 
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I hear some folks are using MVP over wood and then nailing over it. Nobody I know, but I hear lots of stuff all day long.


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