Hey guys, I am a newbie to the flooring industry and have a question...Currently I only do installations, I do not have the experience or money for equipment to offer sanding and finishing as one of my services. When I get jobs that require sanding and finishing I have a company that I have established a good partnership with that I sub out the sanding and finishing to. However, I have a small job (less than 200 sf) for a friend in July that will require installation and sand, finish that I would like to take a stab at sanding and finishing myself. I have sanded a few floors and have learned enough to do small jobs (mainly for friends and family) myself. I will be installing unfinished red oak, 2 1/4" x 3/4". My question is about the sanding/screening schedule. Here is what I was thinking would be the way to do it, but would appreciate some feedback from some more experienced finishers:
First pass with 40 grit on drum and edger.
Second pass with 80 grit on drum and edger.
Buffer with 120 grit screen and orbital with 60 grit to blend in edger and drum.
Next: is it recommended to seal/treat the floor...if so what sealer do you recommend.
Than I was going to coat with Minwax duraseal poly, than screen with old 120 grit screen.
Than a second coat of Minwax duraseal poly, than buff with white pad.
Than lastly one more coat of the Minwax duraseal poly.
As for applying the finish is it recommended to roll it on or use a t-bar.

I hope to be able to do enough small sand/finish jobs to one day be able to do all sanding and finishing myself (hopefully in a year or two) to really become a "full service" operation, but for now I will just practice on friends and family
Any advice and feedback on this topic would be GREATLY APPRECIATED
Thanks in advance.

Matt Fisher
Raleigh NC

If I were in your position, I would be working with the crew you sub for awhile before contracting sand jobs. It takes awile, I spent a year on an edger before the right journeyman said the right things to make it 'click'.
As for your practice job, a two paper job is a hack job. Here is a common practice that I often follow with success on a new floor,
36 (or 40) big machine. New floors usually should be 45'd.
Trowel fill
Straighten cross grain scratches with NEW paper.
50 grit edger.
50 grit (or 60) big machine
Spot fill
100 grit edger
100 grit big mahine
100 grit screen
Screening will eliminate the need to blend the edger line, assuming the edger work is proper. A 50 grit edger paper will provide a good hand-sand paper for any touchups. You don't need an orbital.
Coat with 3 coats oil if thats what you want to use. No sealer necessary, it all does the same thing. Do 4 coats if you want. Fabulon Poly Pro will do you better than that Duraseal. Screen in between coats with the dull screen. I always used a China Bristle brush when I have to use oil, but I hear recently a roller works well with some oils, including the Fabulon. A lambswool can get you in trouble, but is fast. You should consider learning water before too long, it is the future.

There are many ways to do it right, many variations depending on the particular floor but that system is a proven workhorse from which you can make plenty of money and have smiling customers.

Your sanding schedule for a new, solid, unfinished oak strip floor should be:
1) 40 grit at a 35 deg. angle
2) 60 grit edge
3) 60 grit at an opposing 35 deg angle from the 40 grit.
4) Fill the floor. Either trowel fill or spot fill.
5) Edge with 100
6) Fine cut on big machine going with the grain (length) of the flooring.
7) Scrape and handsand corners and edges where needed.
Hardplate (or use orbital) with 100 sandpaper.
9) Screen with 100 or 120 if using a waterborne sealer.
10) vacumn and dry tack. Now your ready for finishing
Everyone developes their own sanding techniques. If you do it long enough, you will too. This is mine and it never fails. If staining the floor medium to dark, beware of sanding marks. This is where good sanding technique comes into play as well as knowing your equipment. As for a finish, I have used all types. I think OMU (oil modified polyurethane) is easiest for the begineer as it dries slower and allows a litle more time for the finisher to ensure no puddles, holidays and the like. High end waterbornes are more durable but more difficult to apply for the novice. Cut your teeth on OMU and when you can produce a flawless finish with that, then graduate to a more expensive finish. Keep in mind, every floor may require a different approach. Not all woods sand the same and not all floors types can be sanded alike. Only experience will give you the knowledge to know how to deal with different floors.

Marco/Gary,
Thanks for the replies...You both mentioned making the first run at an angle with the big machine, 35/45 degrees, I am assuming this will flatten/even the floor the best. When you make the 2nd and 3rd cut going with the grain (long ways) will this take out the scratches from going at a 35/45 degree angle? You both mentioned filling with a trowel...should this be done over the entire floor or just where there are gaps in between the planks, which will hopefully be minimal.
I am going to be using an OMU, and will probably roll it on...do either of you have a recommendation for the type of roller to use?

Only a new paper of the same grit will eliminate all the cross grain scratches when going with the grain.
Ideally you want to trowel the whole floor when new. Done at the appropriate time, it will allow you to see that you've eliminated all those nasty scratches.
I heard that a 3/8" roller was appropriate.