Does anyone have any experience routing bloodwood? I've heard it often chips. I simply need to route a quarter circle about 1.5 ft wide off each corner of a field of ¾ inch solid bloodwood. The cut will be completely through the entire 3/4 inches. I planned on using a trammel as a guide but I’m concerned that it will chip out. I plan to buy a new straight bit for the task but am looking for tips on type of bit material, size of bit, and any other information based on other's experience.

Thanks
Tom

While my experience is not with flooring, I do a lot of cabinetwork and woodworking. I have used Muirapiranga for inlay work, so I know something about routing and shaping it to precision.

I am guessing you're dealing with pre-finished flooring, which makes it more challenging...

I hope your router has a 1/2-inch collet because you really, really want the stability of a 1/2-inch shank on your cutter for this. Buy the best two flute (you don't want a tri or quad flute for this), 5/16-inch or 3/8-inch (larger diameter increases stability in hardwoods) straight bit you can lay your hands on, and you won't find that at Sears or Home Depot... You're going to want to "cut" through the flooring in multiple passes otherwise you'll junk your bit from the heat and make a mess of your Muirapiranga. I would personally do a 1/8-inch to 5/32-inch deep pass for each radius FIRST while the bit is pristine to cut cleanly through the pre-finished surface and through the zone that would be bad for splitting cleanly. Then complete the cuts in three more passes, breaking the remaining cut depth into thirds with that wood until you're through. This approach will keep the heat down, prolonging the bit's sharpness and get you what you want.

Thanks for the input.

My router does accept a 1/2 inch collet. The bloodwood is un-finished. Do you think that 5/16 or 3/8 will flex at all and do you think carbide or carbide tipped bits would be the best? I plan to stop by the local Rockler Woodworking And Hardware store to pick up the bit. I also had planned to make multiple passes on each corner so as not to take too much of a bite at one time. Great idea to take the first (and most important) cut at each corner and then finish the job once the top cuts are all done.

I would personally go with the 3/8-inch if you don't mind the expense. A quality, solid carbide bit will always serve you better, but they are spendy. A quality carbide tipped will get the job done. Rockler probably has some of the best bits you can find "on the street" without ordering, so good choice.

You should be fine. Just be conscious that you're running the router in the proper direction for a clean cut and if you see/smell/hear the bit is working hard - stop, let the bit cool, decrease the depth of the cut and go back to it!

Thanks for the tips. I stopped by Rockler and the sales person recommended a spiral bit. I opted not to go with it because I've read that a twist bit leaves a fuzzy edge on the exit side of bit. Since I would need a spiral bit that pulls debris toward the router the top edge might end up with a fuzzy edge. I need the top edge to be clean. I'll go with the straight 3/8.

Thought I'd share the results. I bought a 3/8" straight router bit with a 1/2" shank from Rocklers. I screwed my homemade trammel jig to the floor for each corner cut. I made the first cut about 3/32" deep, made each successive cut another 1/8" each until all the way through and they all turned out perfect!