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 Post subject: Repair small punctures in cork
PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 5:18 pm 
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I recently bought a house with a 5 year old floating cork tile floor, which was pre-finished with 5 coats of water based polyurethane (manufacturer is Natural Cork). There are a couple of issues:
1) A sliding cuff mark (probably from an old fridge we had them remove), about 15" long.

2) Many small (1/8") "punctures" from a staple or nail on a piece of furniture, spread over several square feet.

In both cases, the damage isn't deep, but breaks the finish to reveal raw cork underneath.

I spoke with the manufacturer, who recommends Bona Traffic as a topcoat, after using a stain pen to match the color. Unfortunately, tile replacement isn't an option, since the damage covers multiple tiles, and the manufacture mentioned that both color and thickness of our line have definitely changed since the 2003 installation.

What is my best option for making a local repair of the affected tiles, which preserves the possibility of a water-based urethane screen and coat down the road? Ideally with a product available in small quantities and easily applied.

Thanks in advance.

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Amish made hardwood

 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 1:32 am 
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Location: Yakima, WA
Wood wise prefinished wood filler. I use it all the time in between coats on my floors that I coat with Bona Traffic. Find a color to match and fill away. :)

Some times the containers I have received are a bit dried out. If you dig out a bit of filler then moisten it as you work it in your fingers it will loosen up and rub on the wipe with a damp rag. 8)

You can find them here:

www.woodwiseproducts.com/woodfiller/prefinish.html

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 8:06 am 
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Thanks. After filling, can you recommend a single part water-based urethane available in small quantities which can be used to "feather" the area and seal it in? Should I aim to roughen up an entire affected tile with screen and feather over it, or just treat each spot more locally, perhaps with a small paintbrush? I do plan a full recoat, but can't get to that until summer, and don't want the damage to worsen.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 3:35 pm 
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Your going to open a can of worms, trying to Feather in, with waterbased.

The area will need to be abraded to give it a tooth, for the new coats of finish to adhere to. That means a light sanding.

Any finish on unsanded area will peel later.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 4:32 pm 
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I thought Bona made some products not requiring sanding?

Maybe it was Basic Coatings? :?:

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Hardwood Floor Inspections. Laminate & Tile Floors


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 4:52 pm 
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Thanks, both. Can you elaborate on the can of worms? If I lightly screen all the areas which will be "spot treated", is there added danger once I go back through for a full screen and re-coat? I've heard various warnings about attempting to use Bona Traffic without lots of experience (sets fast, lap marks, hardener mixing ratio, etc., etc.), yet nonetheless everyone recommends it. Any other recommendations for a protective water-based top coat that's easier to work with (presumably at the cost of some durability)?

Thanks again,

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 5:43 pm 
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I'm not sure what you are asking but you must make a decision.

1. repair the damaged areas temporarily.
or
2. Re-coat the floor.

5 year old floor?

I would Re-Finish the floor. Sand and Re-finish and you are done until next time the flooring is in need of re-coating.

I think that is what Perry suggested.

From what you have described, we can only offer suggestions on what we think you are saying.
It would be best to get bids from professionals because they will be able to SEE what you are talking about.

Thank you for Asking.

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Hardwood Floor Inspections. Laminate & Tile Floors


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 8:35 pm 
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Thanks Ray. My intention was to temporarily repair the damage, then refinish in the next 6 months. I don't want to let the damage worsen in the meantime. So, essentially I want to do #1 AND #2. Will that give me trouble down the road, vs. simply waiting for a full recoat?

Here's a close-up of the damage:

http://picasaweb.google.com/jdtsmith/Fl ... 6066237442

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 2:06 am 
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I am having a difficult time seeing any damage. I'm sure it is there but the floor has such a beautiful appearance. It seems to me that there are some lighter areas just below the penny that might have exposed raw cork. If these area's are deep enough to hold the filler that I mentioned above. I would use that. If these area's are merely scuffed enough to expose raw material, I would consider dabbing on some Bona sealer using a very small applicator that won't get sealer on the not damaged floor.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 4:20 am 
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I cannot see anything either.
So it must not be too bad

Fix and move on.

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Ray Darrah
Hardwood Floor Inspections. Laminate & Tile Floors


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 4:02 pm 
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Thanks guys. Yes, it's those "lighter" spots near the penny; that's the raw cork showing through. I suppose it's not too bad, and the detailed texture of the floor is good at hiding imperfections. I'll fill in the deepest spots, dab on some sealer with a Q-tip for now, and then re-finish over the summer.

Thanks again,

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