I am installing 2 1/4" X 3/4" solid strip. I have completed 2 rooms with a 6' opening between the 2. I left the groove end on one side and have cut to length the other end. See the following pictures
. There is about a 2" gap. I had planned to put in a T-molding but my wife does not think it looks as good as using a header strip (like I did in the closet - see picture


Here's the questions? How difficult and what is the process for installing a header strip after both sides have already been completed? I had a professional installer give me a quote to do the transitions in both rooms. It was 8 hours (sounds reasonable) at $75/hr (sounds high). Is this a good quote or is it something I could do myself?
Thanks!

i'm curious and just asking for my own reasons: why didn't you just extend the floor into both rooms as a continuous flow? was there a reason for having a doorway break in the flooring?

and if so, why didn't you just cut and run a long piece perpendicular to the floor right between the door frame?

A header board will look the best imho. Biggest problem I see is the boards were not installed with a perfect straight edge to allow for that. I believe at this point I would try to belt sand the wood above the tongue flush so they are even. Set your table saw to a 5 to 10 deg. bevel and back-cut both sides of the header board. The top would be wider than the bottom that way. Once you get it back-cut you can use a palm sander to make adjustments so it will drop in.

Use a ribbon or dental floss under it so you can pull it back out if needed.

Thanks for responding. To answer the question about running the strips through, each room was done at a different time. The way the job was quoted was that each side would be very carefully cut along the top with some kind of knife to give a straight 2-1/4 wide gap. Then everting else would be chisled out. The perpendicular stip would have the bottom half of the groove side cut off. The fit would "supposedly" come out perfect. Sound about right? Is $75/hr a fair rate?

$75.00 an hour is my hourly rate. However, I live and work in the SF Bay area of N. CA. about the most expensive place in the US to live, except Hawaii and maybe a few places back east. I also have over 25 yrs experience, am licensed and insured. My rate is reasonable as I am able to effect repairs rather quickly. That 8 hours seems rather long. IMO, shouldn't take more than a couple. I don't know what kind of "knife" that guy's proposing to use. I'd probably opt for a router (carbide rabbeting bit) with a fence to cut a straight line. The last few inches to the wall are where it gets tricking. Score it with a utility knife and then chisel with a sharp chisel. Cutting and fitting the new board is cake.

Gary, that is the "Buck Knife" whittle'n method.


That last few inches next to the door casings is going to be tricky!

I must have been asleep when they taught that at the NWFA advanced installation school!



Yes, I usually take a metal straight edge and line up the straight cut with it. Then using the straight edge, I'll take a utility knife with a new blade and score the wood surface pretty deep. Then it's a matter of cleaning it up carefully with a very sharp chisel.

you guys need one of these:

http://www.arbortech.com.au/trade/chisel.html

I have tools that will do that.......Festool saw combined with the Fein Multimaster. Homeowners that ask questions here don't have easy access to specialty tools. You know anything about that chisel?

Even as slow as i am i would say 3-4 hours to do that, but that takes up just about your whole day when you consider loading up and travel time.

no, jerry, i don't, other than it costs almost 200 bucks...not a tool the average home owner would run out and buy.

i was thinking of all that hand chiseling and i happen to find this thing. it's gotta save some time...and patience i would imagine.