Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Removing staples and splitting tongue
PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 1:29 am 
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Hello,
Can someone please give me some tips on how to remove 2" staples. Also, I have planks with plitting tounges after I stapled, Do I need to remove those planks and when is it acceptable to leave it? Thanks in advance.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 1:32 pm 
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Advice please anyone


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 3:27 pm 
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I use red handled staple pullers to remove staples.

And I would take out the boards with split tounges, the tounge and groove system is what holds your floor together. Try turning down the pressure on your compressor, that should eliminate the splititng of the tounges.

Is it oak? Solid?

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 3:36 pm 
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I remember helping a friend put in some Brazilian Cherry. The tongues kept splitting with that stuff. Finally, we ended up actually cranking UP the pressure to get the nails in without splitting the tongue.

We went through several boards turning the pressure up and down until we found one that worked finally. The setting that it had been on (which apparently wasn't high enough) was what I had used for white oak.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 3:44 pm 
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most exotic's I would use the cleats, they seem to split less tounges in my experiences (in exotics not oak)

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 5:03 pm 
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Yeah, those were cleats we were using. But that Brazilian cherry was just shattering like crazy in the beginning. And even though we got the floor in without breaking too many more tongues, the stuff was causing some of the metal to shear off the nails. We were getting little thin metal splinters stuck in us during clean up. As thin as fine hair, but hurt like hell.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 10:08 pm 
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Soap the ends of your fasteners, before you load the clip.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 11:17 pm 
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Exquisite Flooring wrote:
I use red handled staple pullers to remove staples.

And I would take out the boards with split tounges, the tounge and groove system is what holds your floor together. Try turning down the pressure on your compressor, that should eliminate the splititng of the tounges.

Is it oak? Solid?


First, thank you for your tips. I will try turning the pressure down. Does the Bostitch MFIIIS have depth adjustment? Where can I buy a red handled staple pullers? Homedepot and Lowes?
I am installing 3/4" solid braz. walnut. The wood is so hard it fractures so easy. Even with the tounge splitting. I have had a hard time ripping the tounge apart.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 8:03 am 
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HD or lowes has them. They have red rubber handles ant the staple puller part has an apple shape to it.

What brand of staples are you using? I used ones mad by powernail a few times, they seemed to split the tounges more than the bostics ones.
Try turning the compressor down, soap the staples, and try to go a little slower. you can try and turn the compressor up also and see how that works. If I had known it was B walnut, I would have told you from the get go to use a cleat, not a staple.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 8:28 am 
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Jay, I would imagine you're right about turning down the air on the staples. I didn't read carefully and had assumed he was doing cleats. I think with staples, cracking the tongues will become even worse with the pressure turned up.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 8:35 am 
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Sometimes it is, sometimes its not. I unstalled 2800 ft of masaduba (bloodwood) I went through 3 different brands of staples, and different cleats and a wide range of different pressures. The wood is just so hard and dense I actually found the staples worked very well with the pressure all the way up. I also found that I had to predrill everywhere I was going to face nail when I pulled the walls. Never in my life had I been more excited that I trowel glue all the walls I pull to minimize top nails.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 1:41 pm 
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Exquisite Flooring wrote:
HD or lowes has them. They have red rubber handles ant the staple puller part has an apple shape to it.

What brand of staples are you using? I used ones mad by powernail a few times, they seemed to split the tounges more than the bostics ones.
Try turning the compressor down, soap the staples, and try to go a little slower. you can try and turn the compressor up also and see how that works. If I had known it was B walnut, I would have told you from the get go to use a cleat, not a staple.


I will check with HD or Lowes after work. I am using Bostitch MIIIFS stapler and 2" bostitch staples. I will turn down the pressure but I am afraid it will not sink the staples deep enough. Maybe I need to hit harder with the rubber mallet and wax or soap the staples.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 2:27 pm 
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hitting the gun harder doesnt really do anything but damage guns, there is a reason you hit it with the rubber end, its just a large trigger.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 11:19 am 
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I have seen with my nail gun (not a very expensive one -) that the cleats go in differently depending on how hard i hit the plunger. Now, I am installing Tigerwood, and I think the hardness changes with the color variations (maybe I am crazy). I do have some splitting as well, but it is not consistent!


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 12:43 pm 
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Get your sef a pair of channel locks at HD .. around 14 " long .. Grab the staple and push the locks forward .. no need to try and pull on them .. very easy .. I don't see where if you have the compressor set on lets say at 90 psi , hitting the nail gun harder is going to do anything other then damage the gun , and edge of the board .. it's only going to be shot in at 90 PSI ..


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