I am installing pre finished red oak strips flooring. I am well along in the installation and noticed a strip that I installed earlier has a defect. I have read many times that strips can be replaced but nowhere have I been able to find how this is done. Any suggestions?

Set your circular saw to depth of your material. Make two cuts near middle of board about 1/2 inch apart from butt-to-butt. Pry out the newly formed middle section. It might help to chisel what the saw blade could not reach. Remove both side sections. The nailed side will need some help with chisel. Just be careful about the adjoining boards. Clean all junk from the hole.

Pick out your replacement board. Should be straight. Cut board to size at the tongue butt-end. With table saw, cut bottom goove off on the long side and butt-end. Best to cut a little extra for the fitting. On 3/4 stock, this means you set blade about 1/4" high and fence at about 5/16", including blade.

If you don't have table saw handy, you can break the bottom long side groove by pounding on it with hammer. Depending on the grain, it will split fairly clean. Clean with sharp chisel. The lower end groove can be cut with any saw or also hammered. Ok, now that the purists are cringing...

Apply thin bead of yellow glue to all visible tongues and grooves of adjoining boards. Slip your new board into adjoining boards groove and slide into place. Fit will probably be tight (this is where that little extra cut comes in handy) and use a junk board as a hammering platform. If it is too tight, you can shave the side of the top groove at a slight angle with a sharp chisel, plane, table saw or even rough grit sandpaper/block.

Once the board is in, top nail with finish nails every 6" or so on the groove side of new board and the next board whos groove you just filled. I like to spead the nails out over two boards so they are less likely to catch the eye, but you can also just nail both sides of the new board. If possible, nail in the darker, spring growth areas. Set and fill nails, dab a touch of floor finish to filler and you are done.

There are some slight variations. This will get you by.

There is a much easier way, Marco.

Skil saw 1/2in from each edge of the board. Then plunge the saw into the midle of the board at around 15 degrees or so. You will then be able to simply pluck the middle out. The back will come out easy when it is only 1/2 in . You will need to sink the sheared staples with a nailset if you missed the intersection of staple and subfloor on your circ saw pass. Either way, it is very fast. I can replace a board in no time.

I also use a table saw, but I lay my blade over at a 45 and undercut the back of the board that way. It gives you lots of room and you don't have to fidddle with the blade height.

The glue is the best part. It acts as a lubricant during, and an adhesive after.


Oh yeah. Don't forget the blue tape for the underside of your skilsaw.

Thanks guys for the great information. I now think that I can handle this task!!