Hey everyone,

My wife and I are getting our floors done this week. We have approximately 1100 sq. feet plus a staircase that they will repair. (Some of the treads are separating from the stringer). We are going back and forth on what type of poly finish to use for old pine floors. At first, our flooring guy recommended oil based poly but we asked if it was ok to use water based because of the fumes. He recommended Mega or Traffic by Bona. Traffic will cost us an additional $700. He says that it's a commercial product that can withstand more wear and tear.

Should we just go with the Mega or splurge for the higher-priced Traffic. Keep in mind that we have a two year old son and will most like add to this family in the next 2-3 years. We expect to stay here at least 10 years. What is the best combination of stain and poly that should be used on old pine floors. Also, will the stain be blotchy since it's going on pine.

Thanks in advance,
Oscar

First things first. Your contractor should make stain samples for you to approve. Whether they turn out blotchy depends on many factors. The type of pine flooring you have, how dark a color you choose, the type of stain the contractor uses, etc. While it's true pine can stain "blotchy", that can be minimized. The contractor you selected should know how. If he doesn't, then send him here to ask how.

RE: the finish. NO finish will make the pine harder than it is, meaning, using a more durable finish ( expensive ) does not make the floors more dent resistant. Commercial finishes just are usually more abrasion resistant ( scratch less easily ). IMHO, I think (3) coats of a QUALITY OMU ( oil-based poly ) over an old pine floor would look great and should easily last many years. I did my dad's oak floors over 25 yrs. ago with (3) coats of Dura-Seal poly. They are dented and scratched but the poly has not worn through. Now, if you want to spend the extra on Bona Traffic ( forget Mega, it is not that good, IMO ), you certainly can. It should give you more scratch resistance. I would figure it this way. 1250 sq ft. ( 1100 + 150 for the stairs ) = 2.5 gallons of OMU per coat @ 500 sq.ft. per gallon. So, max, you would need 8 gallons. Assuming the contractor wanted to use Dura-Seal or Fabulon or similar, figure $35.00 tops per gallon x 8 = $280.00. That's what the finish would cost IF using an OMU. Now, figure (3) coats of Traffic @ 400 ft.per gallon ( Bona wants a heavier spread rate ) So (3) gallons per coat, or 9 gallons total at $120.00 per gallon TOPS. I know sites that sell for less. So 9 x 120 = $1,080.00. If you minus out the cost of the OMU @ $280, that's a balance of $800.00. So your contractor sounds as if he is being fair by offering you that finish upgrade @ $700.00. Keep in mind, Traffic is a lower VOC. It is not VOC free. It is not advisable to be around while the finishing is being done. All the airborne solvents will normally be gone in the one week curing time. Ask for samples of both to compare.

Forgetting the cost difference, water-based finishes look like crap on pine generally. A good quality OMU will have a much warmer appearance, and you are going to be looking at this floor for the next 10 years. When move out time occurs, if you havent contaminated the finish, you can recoat either finish to freshen it up. Wouldn't hide the dents much, but pine is supposed to look that way IMO

I'm with dennis on this one. oil like alot better on pine no matter what pine it is. but it your house and your money.
Jeff

Well Dennis I'll jump right in too!! Oil modified is the way to go on a pine floor..Down the road just buff it up and put a couple of coats on and you're good to go

Gary here is a picture of a yellow pine floor I did out in Marshfield

Traffic is super tough. I've had it in my home for over 8 years with three kids and three dogs and it's still holding up great. If you want to have a warmer, amberish color, you could always stain it "Neutral", or seal it with Univerasal sealer first. Traffic is the way to go.

I personally use Minwax Golden Oak and four coats of water-based satin polyurethane.

Make sure that the stain has cured completely so you don't trap solvents below the poly-urethane, which will take longer to off gas. A thicker finish can be more susceptible to chipping from the stress of a dent on this type of floor. This is a good color to help wear blend in when the floor is re-coated after ten or so years, depending on how you take care of it. You will need to consider re-coating the floor when it seems to look dirty after you have cleaned it, and when it has dried shows a traffic pattern.