Hi,

I read through the forums, but I still have some questions.
I pulled an old red oak(3/4" by 21/4) floor up, and re-instaled about 90% of it and about 10% new red oak from Lowes(select). It was alot of hard work. After installation, I've noticed a liitle bit of cracking every 3 or 4 steps. I'm hoping it would go away when the floor is used. (I nailed it fine, 3/4" plywood,used rosin paper, acclimitized the wood, etc.)

Anyway for my refinishing questions:
I sanded the floor wit 36, 80, and 120 grit paper with rental machine.
Q1: Do I need to screen it ? I was told no by rental co.
Q2: I want to use Fabulon Poly heavy duty. Now, should I use a Sealer made by Fabulon Sealer/Prymer ? Or do I need a sealer at all ?
Q3: Do I need to sand after the sealer and in between poly coats ?
Q4: Can the light sanding be done by hand ? I'd like to save in this economy, as my workable hours at work have significantly diminished.
What grit in sandpaper should I use for in between poly coats? Or is there any other type of device to do the sanding ? Someone mentioned a maroon pad ? How much should I sand in between ?
Q5: Should I use a lambswool applicator or natural bristle brush etc ?
Q6:I know i need to buy a respirator to apply the Poly. I'm in NJ, so its still in the 30-40's, so I'll have the heat on at about 70 degrees.
While I apply the poly, do I need to have a window open to let the fumes escape ? But I'm concerned that dust will come in to the floor?

Thnak you so much for answering my questions.

Regards,
Acie

1) Not if you are using an oil based finish and are not staining the flooring. Screening isn't always needed.
2) Oil modified polyurethanes are self sealing. If Fabulon recommends the use of their sealer first, then yes, you should probably use it.
3) Yes, if you are using an OMU. If using a waterbased finish, it is not always needed but the floors will be smoother if you do abrade between coats.
4) If you do not use a buffer, the abrading can be done with a sheetrock pole sander and 180 grit for OMU and 220 for waterbased. Sand till smooth and the finish is de-glossed.
5) If it is a small area, you may get better results with a good quality, 6" natural bristle brush for OMU. Padco painting pads work well too! Lambs wool applicators are the preferred method by some pros but take awhile to get the hang of.
6) A respirator is always recommended.
7) Good ventilation helps but not if it will get snow, rain or dirt in the finish.
Open windows in other nearby rooms as needed. Common sense here.