Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Refinish maple hardwood floor: remove baseboard?
PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 8:39 am 
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We are in the process of getting bids to refinish the maple hardwood floor on the main level of our home (2500 sq ft.). Both contractors have included the removal of the baseboard before sanding. We do not have quarter round nor do we want to add it after. Is it common practice and/or necessary to remove baseboard? I thought the edge sander would get close enough to avoid that step. Please advise.


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Amish made hardwood

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 4:43 pm 
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IMHO a professional will always remove the baseboards, baseshoe, or add base shoe if the customer preferred it.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 10:25 am 
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It does make for a better sand & finish job.


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 Post subject: baseboard removal
PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 12:34 pm 
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that is so helpful. . . thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 12:47 am 
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i agree i even went to the extent of removing all my door frames, but i'm replacing half of them so it made sense to take a few more off.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 6:45 am 
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A much neater look will be acheived by removing the baseboards, since the edger will leave a small vertical edge at the base of the trim if it isnt removed. Only one word for that: unprofessional, so the contractors quoting your project are not leading you down the garden path.
Pay the few extra bucks, it will be well worth it.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 10:14 pm 
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Removal of the baseboard runs the risk or damaging them. Consider having your baseboard painted after the sand and finish, the floors will look new, why not the baseboards?


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 5:13 am 
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Some baseboards are very tall and ornate. And in very old homes, were installed before the plastering was done. So, it really depends on the situation. Newer MDF baseboards tend the break when removed. Not all of it but some. And what if the existing base is stained and the customer doesn't want it painted? Short reversible base is pretty easy to pop off, label and rehang. But on some jobs, the floors can be sanded up to the edge without damaging the baseboards. I recall refinishing a turn of the century Victorian in San Fransisco years ago. All the areas to be refinished had wall to ceiling wainscot paneling in solid walnut :shock: At the bottom, the carpenters had installed this cove walnut base that sat on the subfloor and had a squared off leading edge. Then the carpenters butted the flooring to this coved base molding. No way were going to remove that. We sanded up very close, then hand scraped the last 1/4" up to the cove molding. So, the lesson here is, the experienced finisher will know what the correct course of action to take is. And the homeowner should go along with the recommendations. I mean, why hire an experienced pro, then argue with them about the way they recommend proceeding? Who's the expert here anyway? Homeowner or pro finisher?


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