Some baseboards are very tall and ornate. And in very old homes, were installed before the plastering was done. So, it really depends on the situation. Newer MDF baseboards tend the break when removed. Not all of it but some. And what if the existing base is stained and the customer doesn't want it painted? Short reversible base is pretty easy to pop off, label and rehang. But on some jobs, the floors can be sanded up to the edge without damaging the baseboards. I recall refinishing a turn of the century Victorian in San Fransisco years ago. All the areas to be refinished had wall to ceiling wainscot paneling in solid walnut
At the bottom, the carpenters had installed this cove walnut base that sat on the subfloor and had a squared off leading edge. Then the carpenters butted the flooring to this coved base molding. No way were going to remove that. We sanded up very close, then hand scraped the last 1/4" up to the cove molding. So, the lesson here is, the experienced finisher will know what the correct course of action to take is. And the homeowner should go along with the recommendations. I mean, why hire an experienced pro, then argue with them about the way they recommend proceeding? Who's the expert here anyway? Homeowner or pro finisher?