Hi, first off great forum... I've already put together a few things for the upcoming floor project. Before I start flooring I just have a couple of questions. Here's my situation. I have a sunken lvg room with 2 X 15' step down from adjacent rooms. I've bought 5/8" solid oak (not engineered) uniclic type flooring. I've routered some of the board to make my bullnose for my steps.

Q1- the adjacent rooms going down into the lvg room will have the same flooring, since the bullnose boards at the steps will be glued and nailed down, in order to avoid gaps where flooring meets the bullnose, should I nail the whole floor?
Q2 - if i can nail, I will most likele use a regular nailer, should I staple or nail?
Q3 - if I do nail, can i use rosin paper as th underlay or the padded stuff?

Thanks a mil

Sylvain

Can we review this statement of the floor being "solid" as well as being "uniclic"? Seems to me you have a brand new product on hand there, that I have never encountered.
I am almost positive that one or the other in incorrect. Nevertheless, if indeed it is uniclic, you cannot nail it down.

I've heard about the solid stranded coming out in a uniclick. Maybe they are doing it in oak as well. Who's the manufacturer?
Is that a locking bullnose or over lap? Fastening a click will void the warranty but you could glue it all down however I don't see why anyone would cept the steps.

Hi Thanks for the reply... it doesn't look stranded, it just looks like a solid piece. the manufacturer (atleast the name on the box) is Millmaster ( don't bother researching, they apparently don't exist) lol Which doesn't inspire alot of confidence haha

The bullnose I'm using is basically, one of the planks, which I've cut and routered round on one side, the side opposite the bullnose is the actual receiving portion of the clic system. (the clic system is not the actual uniclic system by quickstep, but something similar) So what I'm afarid of is, by securing the bullnose to ensure that my steps are solid, this will leave me with gaps if the rest of the floor floats.

Uh huh, well first of all the typical stair treads are milled so that it drops over the edge of the step or riser hiding the top portion of the riser, and those are typically glued, with a fastener and or hidden screws. And they use over lap treads or in some laminate systems a click togerher flush mount bullnose so as to avoid that tripping issue. I really do not see how you can float it and secure the bullnosed piece without it decoupling and causing an injury and also locking in the whole floating system. The overlap is made do it allows an expansion space between it and the floor, then it is glued down or screwed to a strip in the Quickstep Uniclick version.

I'd say if you already bought it all and can't take it back your only option is to glue it all, cept for the bottom portion, which if is concrete will be below grade so you need to take special care in avoiding excessive moisture getting to your floating floor like additional six mil plastic under the manufacturers underlayment.

I would consider having 2 15' Oak overlap nosings milled up, in a standard overlap profile,( glue and fasten them down solid. This will solve the required expansion problem. It wouldn't be a bad idea to leave extra expansion than the norm, at the walls opposite the nosings. Not to discount your handy work...But I question how a rounded edge on a 5/8 thickness plank is going to look as a nosing, that solves this problem. Also solves the problem of numerous seams in a 15' nosing, made out of plank. Also solves the problem of the rabbited riser overhang. Then you can click and float away on your floor, as designed.

Still would like to see this product. Any chance of a photo or 3 or 4 , especially an end view of the floor?