Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Questions on problems with new flooring.
PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 7:29 am 
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Buy a new house that just got Bruce hardwood flooring installed, its 2 1/4" Dundee flooring if that helps. My wife and I visited the house this weekend to see how things were going with it, and noticed there are already gaps between some of the boards and it has only been down for about a week.

Is this a normal thing? and if so what size gaps are normal? Didn't have anything to measure them with at the time, but plan on going back this weekend and checking to see if anything has changed.

I do know they acclimated the wood at least some because we saw it sitting out the weekend before, but am not sure exactly when it got in and when they installed it. It's a little concerning to me because I am worried it will just get considerably worse in the winter as I live in the St. Louis area that has considerable high humidity in the summer, and very low in the winter.

Thanks for the information and help.


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Amish made hardwood

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 9:28 am 
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Gaps can be caused by many reasons. Milling can be off, which is common to Bruce flooring. Or the installers are not attempting to get the floor as tight as possible. If it were shrinking, I'd think you would see gaps between almost all the boards. Bring it to the attention of the builder and hopefully, they will remedy it. Most likely, the remedy will be Bruce's Wood filler, which is acceptable up to a certain point. In other words, some small amount of gaps, cracks, nail holes, minor flaws, etc. are typically filled and that is an acceptable remedy repair, according to Bruce. If the entire floor needed filling, that's another matter. You will need a humidifier for the winter months, most likely. It is always the homeowners responsibility to maintain the flooring and environment to prevent excessive gapping and movement. Read your Bruce warranty.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 2:24 pm 
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If this is a nail down floor..
The nailer tightens up the floor as you go...
Has the power been on?
Heater or Air on for at least two weeks?

Is the gapping throughout? That would indicate installation at a high Wood Moisture Content.

Is the gapping in random areas, like 3' and 4' apart? This would indicate sub-floor movement... shrinking maybe.

Wood acclimated in the box? If so, the wood was not acclimated. Homeless people stay warm using boxes and cardboard because it is a great insulator. Wood cannot "acclimate" while in a cardboard box.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 2:41 pm 
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Not sure if this a nail down floor, but the power and air conditioning has been on for a week or two. However, the flooring was acclimated in the box.

And the gapping is random as apposed to throughout.

Will the problem get worse or is there any way to fix the problem?

Also, how much gap should I expect as normal and at what point should I complain about it? I'm pretty irritated that a week old floor is already showing gaps, in the first place.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 5:24 pm 
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Dear Abe,

the gaps are random which could mean you have sub-floor drying if the floor is on a wood sub-floor.
Or it could be acclimating on the floor.

If glued down, it may have been installed with gaps.

Since we cannot determine why you have gaps, we cannot answer your question.
Wood SubFloor?
Concrete Sub-floor?
Over a basement?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 8:20 pm 
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It's a wood sub-floor, though I do not know if they put down a moisture barrier. I also, do not know if they nailed or stapled it down.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 10:10 pm 
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Home acclimated for a week or so prior to installation.
Gaps are random.

I think you have sub-floor movement.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2007 8:52 pm 
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Ray Darrah wrote:

Wood acclimated in the box? If so, the wood was not acclimated. Homeless people stay warm using boxes and cardboard because it is a great insulator. Wood cannot "acclimate" while in a cardboard box.



Wood will gain or lose moisture content, while in the carboard box. Carboard is made from wood pulp. It may not gain or lose temperature as fast as the blink of an eye.

You have to figure wood in the carton is stacked in there. Basically makes it like one big log. It takes longer for the center of a log to lose moisture content, then the outside.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2007 10:48 pm 
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Wood pulp and glue..

most manufacturers consider acclimation by removing from box.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 7:49 am 
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Then there are those, that are wrapped in plastic, with strict instructions, not to open the plastic, and acclimate to a higher moisture content. They want the interior acclimated for the wood. If you do open the plastic, you may not get the flooring together. The T&G are milled so tight, a gain in moisture swells it enough that it becomes a fight to get the T&G's together.


My money says, those gaps were there upon installation. Bruce is the only maufacture I have seen so far, that states in their installation instructions, that Bruce wood filler is needed, and normal.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 12:20 pm 
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Floorguy said:
Quote:
Bruce is the only maufacture I have seen so far, that states in their installation instructions, that Bruce wood filler is needed, and normal.


I said
Quote:
In other words, some small amount of gaps, cracks, nail holes, minor flaws, etc. are typically filled and that is an acceptable remedy repair, according to Bruce.

We're on the same page here. I'd bet the gaps are poorly milled boards that didn't get culled out.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 5:00 pm 
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Is Dundee "eased edge" or "Beveled edge". ??
I inspect gaping claims only to find the sunlight reflecting off the bevel giving the appearance of gaping..

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 10:33 pm 
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micro-beveled sides, square cut ends:
http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwo ... -plank.htm


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