Pine floors are pretty soft so they will sand easily. Even if you have a fairly large room I think that a 6" random orbit sander with 80 grit sandpaper will be your best option, unless you know how to use a belt sander. Only sand the floor to smooth the planks so there are no edges that you can feel between the boards and remove the mill marks, which may show as small ridges if you look closely.Scrape and hand sand the corners with 100 grit paper, folded into thirds. Keep the scraper sharp with a mill file so you don't need to work too hard, and get some knee pads. Practice the stain color on a loose piece of pine to get the color to match. When the stain is wet, that will be the color after it has dried, been buffed, vacuumed, and the first coat of finish has been applied. I like to give the stain 24 hours so that the oil can harden after the paint thinner has dried. After the first coat has dried, when you lightly sand the surface with fine, maybe 100 grit paper, and the surface powders, you will be ready for the final coat. If you want to apply a third coat, wait a couple of days, then buff with fine sandpaper vacuum, or tack with a damp cloth and apply the finish. I use gloss for the first coat(s), then satin for the final coat, using up any left over gloss with the satin. Left over finish will skin over and not be usable after a few months, if you have a partial can.
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