This is my first time installing solid hardwood flooring and over the past few months I've been reading non-stop about everything from preparation to caring for your floor.

I've armed myself with a bunch of good tools and knowledge so hopefully this will go smoothly, however with that said I do have a few questions for the experts after a little background on the project and scope.



Attached is the floor plan showing joist layout and flooring direction for reference. The project is a 2nd Floor install of around 550 sq feet, complete throughout (no transitions between the 3 bedrooms and hallway).The subfloor is currently 3/4 T&G plywood on 16" center and the moisture reading with my Lignomat shows between 6-7% over several locations at this time.

The Jatoba has been onsite about 2 weeks and shows 6% consistently which is as low as my meter reads. Hopefully this is ok as I've been reading this should be within 2% of the subfloor for a plank install. Any thoughts?

I have 2 rolls of Aquabar B underlayment I'll be using before the flooring goes down.

The joists for 2 smaller bedrooms and most of the hallway run perpendicular to the planned install, however the larger bedroom and closet have the joists running parallel. Is the 3/4 T&G sufficient or should I add 3/8 or 1/2 to this? I'd like to avoid it if I can only because of the 1/2"+ transition it will create at the top stair bullnose and the bathroom doorway (vinyl).

My thoughts is to run my starter strip the length of the hall and back bedroom, running rows toward the front/master bed and then spline and reverse direction for the back bedroom, part of master and master closet. Any thoughts/suggestions on a different way to start out (perhaps with the top of stair transition in mind)?

With that said, I was planning measuring from both the Master Bed and 2nd Bed outside common wall to the hallway, then snap a line between those in which to start from.

Thanks

Wow 20 reads and no-one has any comments?

I am adding some more information hopefully it can spark some discussion.

I just picked up my 1/2 plywood underlayment and while waiting for this to acclimate some (ligno shows 6% on the new plywood) I decided to stick the Jatoba and existing subfloor.

Temperature swing has been from 75 w/41% humidity to 68 w/39% humidity which equates to 7.4-7.8 MC. No matter what Jatoba board I stick the meter always shows 6%, can it be that dry still? The 3/4 subfloor is showing 7.0-7.2 MC and my finger shows 20% so the meter is def working. Prob I have with the Jatoba is getting the pins all the way in. The shorties aren't really a problem but to get at the center of the board I tried the longer pins. Good luck getting those things more than 3/16" into the board.

I'm in New England so summer and more humid weather is on the way. Should I let this sit longer or try and speed things up with a humidifier, assuming the 6% is real?

Thanks

Looks like I am the only one here thats not working today.


Your strategy looks sound to me, especially if your going to put down new 1/2 ply. So does the rh and temp levels. Does your meter manufacturer give you a specific gravity ajustment chart?

I always like to start out in the hallways, thats where it will look the most out of square.

Check this against your local rh and temp history for the summer. You should be around the median temp and rh.
http://www.woodworkerssource.com/moisture.php

Stephen,

I appreciate the follow up. Looks like based on this I am between 11.0 and 12.0 in the summer time as I am between NY and Boston. I'm assuming that my low MC now is a result of heating the relatively dry/cooler outside air up to room temperature (68-72)? Looks like I'm on the hunt for a humidifier to get things up otherwise I'm waiting until July to install this

Yea, thats the same info I linked to, just a different site. I got this humidifier, works great and I think it has the largest capacity -5.5 gallons and can evaporate 13 ga a day. But once you reach your intended rh target refilling it will reduce to once a week, give or take a day or two.

http://www.amazon.com/Essick-Air-4D7-30 ... 405&sr=8-2

While working on the humidity issue I decided to mark out some of the master bedroom subfloor to see how level it is before adding the underlayment. It appears that I have a 1/2" dip at the center portion of the floor dipping down then back up on the other side. The dip is over a 14 foot section (7 to the middle and back) so I'd say this is a bit too much, yes/no? Planning on laying some 30 roofing felt (perhaps shingles in the worst area near the center) in layers, building it up to nearly flat or certainly within 1/8", does this sound reasonable as well?

Thanks

Any commentary on the above regarding the #30 underlayment and/or shingles, I'm starting this weekend and want to confirm this is a reasonable approach?

1/2" is quite a bit. IMO shingles and felt is more suitable for minor variations.

I would consider using 1/2" plywood. Loose lay, and use a hand planer for feathering, to attain flatness. Then secure to the subfloor with PL Premium and screws.

You could also pull the center sheets and shim them.

Ok, the subfloor is finally level. I used 1/2" plywood and shimmed up/down to/from it with 30 paper and shingles. I've started my 1/2" CDX underlayment and the floor seems really solid so far so I'm quite happy.

I've had a humidifier running since late last week and noticed the room has gone from an avg temp/rh of 72/40 to 72/48. I have a small piece of the jatoba just sitting near the humidifier just to see what happens and I'll be damned if that thing still reads 6.0 on the meter. I'm really quite concerned on how long this is taking to acclimate. The wood has been sitting in opened boxes for 4 weeks now so I'm almost to the point of giving up and installing it. I'm also running out of time and patience with the wife on having things torn up. She just isn't very cool with the whole "acclimation time" anymore. I'd be willing to bet the pros aren't letting this wood sit around for a month prior to installing it so I am at a loss with the whole process.

What's the MC of your subfloor? If the MC of your subfloor and the hardwood is within 2% of each other...go for it. And keep the RH in your home between 35-55%.

What type of thermo-hygrometer do you have? Don't rely on the ones that are on the humidifier exclusively. They are positioned to close to the unit and will give you a false high reading. I have a pretty good one I bought at Radio Shack and it runs a couple degrees less than my professional grade one. Plus your using a lignomat pin meter. Not the worst meter in the world but certainly not near the best. I'm thinking you should be reading 8's by now.

I'm not feeeling it as far as shimming down a full half inch with shingles and felt. IMO it's way to much paper to fasten through. You better be using 2 inch fasteners.

http://www.powernail.com/home/depthchart.htm

Are you using a Mini-Ligno? Here is the correction chart: http://www.lignomat.com/MoistureMeter/m ... C.gold.pdf

It's a pretty expensive one actually since I'm a meteorologist. I have a Davis instruments setup with my weather station for both outside and inside readings.

I did shim up to that 1/2" but I'm going over this whole thing with 1/2" underlayment, wouldn't that be enough to hold the floor?

The MC of the new CDX underlayment is showing 6% as well, so I suppose from that perspective I could be good to go.
I am using the mini Ligno E/D model.

Well since you using the same meter and both are near the same I'd say go for it. But don't call me to come fits it. Plywood typically runs a percentage point lower than denser hardwood.

Well, I've made a mistake but it was bound to happen. I cut off the end of a board to fit against the wall, allowing the recommended space. I moved that board away from the wall because the seam ended up adjacent to the previous row and without thinking nailed it in place. Now I just realized I have no groove to fit the last piece in, about 12-13 inch shorty. Can I cut off the end tongue on the shorty then glue and blind nail it?