Hi, I've been lurking and reading as much as I can. This will be my first attempt on installing a new hardwood floor in my 400sq/ft room. I want to be well prepared and do this right.

Current condition of the sub floor.
House is built in 1930, and this is on a 2nd floor apt unit. 3/4 wood planks tongue and groove sub floor running perpendicular to floor joist. 16" oc. about 400 Sq/ft

sub floor is relatively leveled, in very good condition, with exception of 1 or 2 planks cupping and a few bumps here and there. I am in the process of sanding them as flat/leveled as possible.

I've also started adding 2 1/2" deck screws to the sub floor.

Current old wood floor in other areas of the apt.
the layout can be described as following,
living room (A), Bedroom(B), new floor room(C), A hallway connects A and C (A and C are on each end of the hallway facing each other).

A and hallway has hardwood floor running parallel to the sub floor planks.
B has wood floor perpendicular to the sub floor planks.

Old wood floors are 2in wide strips, and definitely less than 3/4 in thickness. I've already sanded the finish off and to leave them natural. still yet to seal them.

My desired goal is following,
1. install new hard wood floor 3/4 thick in room C, (solid oak wood natural finish) hoping to match the old wood floor as much as possible.

2. Since it's not possible to match the old floor strip width. I am debating to go with either 2 1/4 or 3 1/4 width strips. in 3/4 thick. New floor will be taller than hallway. The sample pieces confirmed that.

3. I want to install the floor parallel to the sub floor planks. So I can at least make room A, Hallway and Room C to have same flow. Also, this will make the floor flow with the longest wall in room C.

Now comes to my questions,
1. Can I install the new hardwood floor parallel to the sub floor planks? I understand it's not recommended. But it has been done this way years ago in room A and hallway of the apt? The old floor is still solid. Almost no squeaking. I understand they dont make that kind wood no more.
Has anyone done this and encountered problem after sometime? I've read about potential problems are splitting, cupping with sub floor planks, etc. But no one has came forward with a real example on this.

2. What can I do to prep the sub floor as best as I can? I do not wish to add more height. I need to take care of the cupping and bumps here and there.

3. Please see the picture of the sample floor pieces. I need to make a decision of the size your opinions are welcomed.

4. Do you have other opinions on the direction of the new floor?

thanks in advance.

Good Morning,
Nothing beats wood floors and the warmth they bring to a room.

To answer question #2...
You mentioned that some of the subfloors have cupping and bumps. I would caution that many times cupping is caused by moisture issues. Before installing the new floors you may want to take moisture readings in that room (especially near water pipes in the walls and/or floor) just to ensure that no moisture related problems exist. To do this you should test a minimum of 8 test for 400 sq/ft and average the results. If you record excessively high MC readings, do not proceed with the installation until the origin of the moisture is identified and eliminated.
http://www.wagnermeters.com/flooring/wo ... ors-diyer/


To answer question #3...
I would recommend the board direction flowing the length of the room to accentuate the size. Also, I would recommend the 3 1/4 width strips to add to the open feeling of the space. (Of course this my personal opinion, but also a common practice.)

Last thoughts...
Sometimes if wood flooring flowing from room to room isn't all refinished at the same time (say years apart) it gives a very grimy feeling to the floors not recently re-finished.

Prior to installation, wood flooring needs to equalize with the room where you'll be installing it. Equalization is a process that can take weeks or months depending on how far off the wood moisture content is from the room where you're installing. This can be super frustrating but worth the wait (or even better worth checking that you're getting boards with an appropriate moisture content at the time of purchase). The only way to accurately determine when the flooring is equalized and ready for installation is with an accurate moisture meter set for the appropriate species of the wood flooring.


Looking forward to seeing pictures of the finished product!

Nice first post Wagner Meters. Is this Jason?

Thanks for the advise. wagner. i am off to buy a moisture reader.

please take a look at the pictures of my floor and the room.

The reason i want to run the new floor parallel to the subfloor planks is so I can possibly create a illusion that my floor flows all the way to the deck, outside of my living room. Installing the subfloor parallel to the sub floor also means they are perpendicular to the joist.

Now, let's say the direction doesn't matter aesthetically anymore. because walls on both axis are about the same length. one is 23", the other is 20".

although, this new space is combination of the kitchen, and living space.

structurally, which is better option?
1. parallel to subfloor, perpendicular to joist.
2. Perpendicular to subfloor but parallel to the joist.

I like 3 1/4 better too. either way, i will make a nice transition piece from hallway to the new floor space.

Stephen, to answer your question: No. Its not Jason, but I work very closely with him.

Ren20, I'm glad I could help. If you have any further questions please feel free to send them our way!

www.wagnermeters.com
Happy Labor Day Weekend!
Neissa

You get to work with the Orange Man, very cool! I still waiting for my orange T-shirt.

http://www.wagnermeters.com/concreteforum/

If it were my place, I'd run a header board across the hallway and then do the new installation on a 45º angle.

Forgot to add... To install to standard, you must go the opposite direction or at an angle to the solid dimensional subflooring.
You are on your own going the same directions as the existing boards.
Shrink and swell will be multiplied.