hello:

i have a quick question regarding the installation of reducers.

to begin, my floor is currently approx 3/8" above the kitchen tile, therefore, i would like to use a reducer to smooth out the transition.

as i was researching, i came across an overlap reducer and a flush reducer. It seems the pros for using an overlap reducer is to "hide" the edges of the hardwood, but it looks stubbier than a flush reducer.

Regarding the installation though:
1. it seems overlap reducers require the 1/4" gap for expansion space, but flush reducers do not. why is this the case? i would assume the flush reducer requires it as well (but doesn't make sense since it's "flush").

2. if i'm installing the reducer on the tile (to have an even transition), can i just use liquid nail? for flush reducers, i assume just apply the liquid nail under the reducer. for overlap reduers, is this the same case or do i also need to apply to the lip that overlaps the wood.

thanks.

i apologize if these questions are basic, but there's nowhere that explains why an overlap needs the 1/4", but the flush doesn't.

A reducer is not going to hinder the floor from moving a little if it ever needs to. I prefer to use flush reducers whenever possible. They can be glued down.

Both the overlap and the flush reducer transition pieces will require an expansion space.

What type of wood will you be installing? If it is a solid you might have other options for this transition.

thanks for the responses.

sorry, a little confused now. one post said the reducer wont' affect the expansion and the next post says it does.

Barquios, I was looking to use maple transitions. what other options? aside from creating your own from solid planks.

The expansion is hidden underneath the reducer. A flush reducer butts to the wood on one side and the sloped side rests on "top" of the tile. If the floor wants to move some it still can. The thickness of the reducer depends on what the job calls for.

what do you glue the flush reducer to? The edge of the hardwood?

If you are talking about this particular situation where most of the reducer rests on top of the tle... I glue it there and shoot a few 3 brads in the hidden expansion gap to keep it tight until the glue sets.

If there is enough thickness on the reducer to spline and glue it to the wood, that might be better, but you would not glue it to the tile that way