I have a couple of questions regarding a diy install of 5" hickory 3/4 solid. I have never worked w/ real hardwood over 3". My main concern is whether to nail or use nail plus glue. (sausages) I've helped lay hardwood before and laid a lot of tile, laminate, built barns, garages, trim work etc but I'm a little concerned about the new floor my wife picked out due to the width and the fact that it is hickory. She picked out Homerwood's Hand scraped hickory saddle, that stuff is high but I have to admit the samples look great.

This install will be over a finished basement, plywood subfloor in our house which is a little less than 20 years old. There are no moisture problems in the basement. It is Jan here in KY and untypically cold as it seems to be all across the US and the RH values in my home are a little low, 35-40%. I plan on letting it acclimate inside for a week or two, testing moisture levels and then fastening it down w/ 2" cleats over 15lb asphalt level. My worry is obviously that 35% rh is on the low side so I will have to get that up but whether I should rethink and use glue plus nail. Obviously I had rather not use glue and stick with the method I am more familiar with but which would you do if this were your floor?

It sounds to me like you have everything well under control.

IMO , I wouldnt worry about adding glue to a nail down installation on a 5" width. When I start getting into wider planks, I consider that option, and offer it to the customer.

Or a 3/4 inch engineered hardwood... Far more stable

http://www.uptownfloors.com/products/34 ... neered.htm

That theory kinda confuses me floorologist. What is or can the result be for not gluing planks over 5in wide? Can you explain and is there some sort of scientific mathematical algorithm to prove it?

That's a good word "algorithm"

Did I say not to glue planks over 5" wide ???

Have another cup of java , your still sleeping

Thanks for the replies. That engineered would have been perfect, but too late. I've heard it both ways on solid 5 inch boards but I've always thought glue+nail was for over 5 inches while you were ok w/ nail/staple only on 5's. After reading quite a bit lately I was a little concerned since it seems a few people are doing both on 5" planks.

I think it falls into the category "It's a judgement call", on a 5" width.

Apparentely some manuf. are suggesting glue with nailing, in which case I would follow that.

I never use the glue and nail process, so cannot advise you that it is in any way necessary. I HAVE, however, used a tongue and glue adhesive in the end joints to ensure no future squeaks after the floor has matured and relaxed. This is from the ole flooring manual from back in pre-historic times, but still seems valid today.

5" wide solid hickory will move on you if you are not real careful. I would make sure to get the humidity back up to a year round average number for this one. Or if that is not going to happen you may consider building in some expansion in the field in leu of. Check you floor and subfloor make try to get them as clsoe as possible ideal is 2 points or less.

I fgigure it offers more resistance to movement. But seems like fasteners hold floors sufficiently especially staples. Not to sure about this new nail and glue theory. Just wondered how it started and why. I guess it is speculation and not documented science?

Carlisle flooring started this over 20 years ago for their wide plank pine flooring. Just blind nailing 12" and 14" T&G planks isn't going to work. Carlisle offered two options. Face nail the planks with decorative nails into the floor joists OR, glue the planks down with PL 400. Blind nail as well. Over the years, renegade installers were looking for ways to reduce lateral movement on wider plank flooring. Chuck Crispin was one of the early installers gluing solids down to concrete, and with success. Others followed suit and soon, it became an "option" with various installers calling for gluing down anything 5" wide or wider. The older NOFMA installation manual calls for screwing and plugging solid plank flooring, in addition to blind nailing. Well, few of us want to bore, screw and plug prefinished hardwood planks. And as many know, plank floors will move more than narrow strip floors. So, basically, the idea is to reduce movement. As an installer myself that has used this technique on occasion, I can tell you it does work with the right adhesive.