I'm currently looking at doing my up stairs in hardwood and need help on what is the best way to turn my hallway corners and what type of wood would be the best to do this with or even possible with, Solid or engineered.

I have attached a picture that shows the loft area and the multiple angled turns for the hallway.
I can manage the normal 90deg corners. but its the angle run that I have concerns with.
I will start in the loft and the boards will be running with the 16ft length.
I would like to have the boards run with the hallway in each section.

But I'm not sure if it will be possible to do if I use engineered wood.
I know that I could do it with solids, and just route new groves on both sides and use the tongue pieces sold separately, but is this possible with Engineered?

Or is there any better solutions. I really haven't found an answer to this on the net.

Any ideas and solutions would be great.
Thanks in advance.

Same can be done with engineered, as solid.
Just a matter of the right size bit for a narrower groove, and milling your own spline, or slip tongue.

I'll be using prefinished.
Which option is the best or less damaging to the floors top coat.
I figure tow grooves and a spline would work best.

Is it possible to get a beveled edge or will I have to live with a straight edge in these areas.
Not sure if sanding a little on the edge would ruin the wood?
this would also apply to any ripped pieces, but really not needed since they will be along the walls.

thanks again for you help.

I'm not understanding the question or why you would want to reverse direction of the T&G. I'd run it straight through wall to hallway. Maybe I need more coffee.

Not sure what your asking about which is less damaging to topcoat.

I use 2 small shapers ,( their actually routers secured upside down under tables), their great for portable. The reason for 2 ....You need 2 different bits, at 2 different settings,( you don't want to try and get away with one table and be changing bits and settings back and forth). One table for groove, one table for bevel, (I imagine you could sand bevels, but time consuming, and not very accurate on a large scale).
Tape the shaper table tops, so there's no chance of the finish scuffing.
Stain and urethane the bevels.

IMO it IS a much nicer look, micro bevelling the ends to match up with the sides.
Of coarse you can also just use the routers, ( without turning it into a shaper), just tape the router base, or the top of the plank, to protect the finish.

Not sure either why you want to change direction then go back except just an attempt to have something a little different. I would keep it all the same for just a small hallway. But if that is what you want I just use a sanding block with maybe 100 grit. depending on the size of the bevel. On another note I would start off the stair nose. you want that to look straight and even.

I think you guys are missing the question of the post. Nothing to do with changing directions. I'm taking it as ...The OP is figuring on following the hallway layout, parallel, in each direction, and wondering the best way to handle the joining of the mitres, where the different directions meet....... I'm pretty sure. Maybe I'm out in left field, (wouldn't be the 1st time).

I'm still lost Howard. You mean where the hallway takes a 45 degree turn? I'm taking a pass on this one. On to the next one. lol

lol....Well if I have the recipe right....With the planks installed parallel to the walls in the hall, at each section.... there shoud be 4 points where the planks intersect, and are mitred. Kind of a jigsaw puzzle, but actually should look pretty cool

Floorologist got the main point of the question. And going parallel to the walls.
The other question was about routing the tongue and grove and if there was a method that wouldn't leave a sharp edge or cause splinting.
but it sounds like I might have to sand a little in those areas to smooth it back out.

Well I have made up my mind. And I will go with Solid wood, probably Bruce or Noblehouse 3/4 by 3.5inch gun Stock color.

Anyone have a preference between those two brands?

Thanks for all your advice.

I have never worked with Noble House, but my distributor dropped them because there were to many quality issues with them.

Always been happy with Bruce, like Jeff...haven't installed Noble House.

Thanks you have been a great help.

Anyone know why lowes dropped BR-111?

BR-111 went to direct internet sales, to the end user.