Hello,
I am a wood flooring contractor in the Minneapolis area. I recently installed a prefinished, nail down wood floor that has random length planks. The homeowner is upset because in certain areas of the floor I had to eliminate the micro bevel on one end of a handful of planks due to the layout of the house. (Where the floor is between carpet and tile.) All of my cuts are nice and tight, but they don't like the absence of the micro bevel on the one side. Also, I had to replace a couple of planks because they were scratched after installation which gives me the same problem. Being random lengths, I had to cut new pieces to fit, eliminating the micro bevel on one side. I have always done my repairs this way, and never had an issue. I thought about an overlap reducer to hide the cuts against the tile, but the homeowners don't like that either. Is there some kind of documentation I can get to show them, or is there a better way to do my repairs? I tried finding the same exact length boards, but after looking through 3 different boxes, I would have to be pretty lucky to find the exact same length.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

When doing board replacement in a pre-finished bevelled floor, you have to duplicate the micro-bevel wherever it is within the floor system. A couple passes with 100 grit paper on a block is usually sufficient. You then touch up this newly created bevel with stain and urethane, or simply use a marker designed to match the colour. These are usually lacquer based and will protect the raw wood.
Same thing applies at that junction to tile if you dont have a cross piece installed as a threshold.

Is that industry standard? I've never seen anyone do it that way. It makes sense, just a bit more work though.

I cant speak for the industry, only what our company does.
Because we do so much new housing, there is almost always some trade damage between the time of our install and closing day. Other trades here do not give a %^#@% about our work, nor do the builders.
We have four full time servicemen doing nothing but board replacement, day after day. sheeesh Of course, our guys are so efficient and well equiped for this work, it is actually a money-making division of our company, lol.

ROS and a Minwax stain pen. Keeps the flames and fires from having to be put out.

Now that they are installed... How good are you with a scraper, exacto knife and dental picks

If you have to remove a factory edge for either the installation or a repair, you need to put an edge back that most matches that factory edge. For "eased edges", sandpaper works fine, as those edges are small and rounded. For micro/mini bevels, I prefer a sharp block place. If you have to do many feet, set the table saw up, tilt the blade to 45, and align the fence to just clip the edge of the boards. After beveling, you'll need to stain and/or finish the edge. I have never seen an "industry" ruling on this. It has just always seemed to be the proper way to do it.

But rarely done.

The guys that do take the extra time, get under bid by those that don't do it.

We never get involved in a cattle call bidding war. I try to be very upfront with prospective clients about getting their criteria list in proper order. If price is at the top, we decline the opportunity to work on their project.
If quality of materials and workmanship are important, then we do our best to provide that, along with FAIR pricing.
This has always worked for us. If a client is watching every penny on a job, then they cannot expect to get a 10 dollar floor for 8 dollars.

I'm just a DIY'er with floors. I've done maybe 4000sf of installation (half of that in my own home). But, in each case, I always hand sanded a bevel in for boards that needed it. I agree that it just seems the proper way to do it. In fact, if I hired an installer and they didn't do it that way, I would request that service. I'm a perfectionist in that way and things like that bother me unless they're done right.