Hi,

After months of internal and external debate, helped along the way by some very knowledgeable folks here, we have decided on reclaimed 7" wide, 3/4" solid douglas fir planks. Here's the issue: we prefer the look of old floors that have gaps between the boards to the tight, almost 1-piece look, of new t&g flooring. Additionally, we would like to face nail these boards to a plywood subfloor. We not only like the look of top-nailed floors but also see this being a far simpler installation.

We are in Southern California.

Are we asking for trouble by simply laying the planks next to each other and face nailing? If this is fine in the short run, are there long term issues that come from not having the planks connected to each other?

I need to tell the mill in the next few days how exactly I want the product.

Many thanks for your help.

It might be a good idea to also glue the boards down. Besides that it can be done just the way you are describing.

I would glue also. the tongue and groove help prevent any boards lifting up or twisting. I think you might have issues with boards loosening as the change with the seasons. Just my opinion though have never done one w/o t&g.

Neato, I like it. What type of finish are you planing on using?

Seems like we are all on basically the same page here. However the T&G wont prevent the almost inevitable gapping that will occur in time with a 7 inch board, and will help keep the surface flat. But by all means, your method of squared boards will work fine, supplimenting with a zigzag bead of adhesive under the boards.

We are having it milled with their "hit or miss" finish. As far as our on site finish, we haven't decided yet, though we know what we want--a clear, dead matte finish that we won't know is even there. I'm guessing this means some kind of oil or wax. What do you think?

Also, when you guys are talking about gluing in addition to the nailing, are you talking about using the same expensive ($1-$2/sf), semi-difficult to use, troweled on glues that you would use for a traditional glue down installation?

Thanks.

That's an interesting name,"Hit or Miss Finish". Re: Your site applied finish...My finish knowledge is limited, but you mentioned clear, oil, & wax, in the same breath. I would be aware that many oils and waxes create an amber tone when applied.

RE:Gluing- The gluing that is usually performed in this installation scenario is like Dennis mentioned with a zig zag bead, ( as opposed to "full spread"), using a urethane adhesive in a cartridge , such as Sika http://www.sikaconstruction.com/con/con-wfb.htm

You can also fullspread, but it is a bunch more money( although they do get more for cartridges, over 5 gallon pails) . Since your topnailing, full spread shouldn't be much of a mess. IMO, fullspread has a couple advantages over a "zig zag bead". You will have better results in the long run concerning movement. And keeping the surface of the planks flat.

Just finished a 1200 ft 8in wide plank (up tp 10 footers) and used the Rubio Monocoat. The wood was presanded so it only took me an the owner two days to pole sand with 100 grit and do the Rubio Monocoat... hard wax oil. It looks beautiful. I would highly recommend it to anyone.

It's a leaning curve though. Lots of finish guys who do poly need to re-ajust. So easy to apply and to repair, I hope the DIY'ers don't figure this one out.

A good mechanic can remove damaged boards whether glued or nailed without too much trouble. Gluing keeps the wood attached to the sub-floor as it goes through the heating season. Of course you would like a floor mechanic working on your floor instead of an electrician or plumber. The floor mechanic will be the one to call when there is damage or the flooring needs work. Having some left-over materials handy solves one of the problems.

Didn't see it mentioned, but since its southern climate, I'd recommend a full spread glue down to keep everything secure since it will be mostly dry RH, causing shrinkage and warping/bowing/lifting boards (unless you have decent humidification system in the home, which I also recommend). The wide planks are the issue - as mentioned above those 7-8 inch wide boards really do tend to expand/contract more in my experience. Whenever budget-possible, I always recommend the full spread gluedown - far less callbacks and longer lasting performance, although board replacements are more difficult.

One other watchout - for now and later, when you sand the floors, you need to countersink the nails.

It's easier enough to do (we've done this in many floors from 1800s and 1700s here in NY). If you don't you can ruin sanding machines. If you are hiring a professional, it will cost you a bit extra for the added labor.

This is not a show stopper at all. Just be aware of it.

Debbie Gartner
http://TheFlooringGirl.com