Sometimes the remedy is worse than the problem. The hard part about fixing spots with polyurethane is getting them to blend in as well as getting the sheen to match. The more poly you put over a spot, the deeper the finish is going to look.
Usually, what I do is mask off the individual boards around the affected area if I can. If I can't, then I mask off the linear lines on either side and then will blend into the grain of the wood or whatever I can do to help the poly taper off.
You have a couple of options as far as the puddle goes. First, make sure the puddle has dried enough, otherwise you are going to be trying to smooth out a lump of rubber. I use a 1" scraper and file the edge until it's as sharp as I can possibly get it. I shave the excess off down as close as possible without removing any wood. Sometimes you just end up too deep and get some wood up with the poly shavings. This method gives you the most control and the smallest footprint. After that, you want to sand the affected area with a high grit sand paper, or just simply rub it really well with a green scotchbrite pad. then take your poly and brush it on thinly and let it dry. Come back and keep building up until you get the mark to disappear.
It takes a few tries to get it right, sometimes you can't and the best solution is to simply just coat the whole floor again if it's in an area that just can't be avoided visually or won't have enough traffic on it to help "beat it down" and "sock polish" it.
Pro tip: don't coat all the way to the tape until you are sure it's the last coat you are going to put on, then pull the tape immediately after applying the finish to avoid leaving an edge. The tape will dam up the poly, removing it will allow the poly to level off with the floor better.
No matter what you do, the chances are high that you will see something after you've fixed it from some angle or another. My test usually involves walking into the area from different angles and seeing how bad it catches my eye. I call it the 5 second test. If I can't see it withing 5 seconds of walking into the room from most angles, that's usually good enough to ultimately blend in with time. As long as you understand that the patch may not necessarily be an immediate fix, but will look better as the floor gets used, you'll be successful. If you fret over it being 100% perfect, you'll never stop working on the spot and you might as well concede now to recoating the floor again.
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